Area history: "Guidebook to Historic Germantown", 1902
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A 1902 Edition of a "Guidebook to Historic Germantown".
One of the opening pages contains a poem written by Francis
Daniel Pastorius, the agent for the Frankfort Company,
and the leader of the original thirteen settlers who came
to Germantown. The original poem was written in Latin, and
translated by John G. Whittier (John Greenleaf Whittier???)
The poem was written in 1688.
Hail to posterity!
Hail, future men of Germanoplis!
Let the young generations yet to be
Look kindly upon this,
Think how your fathers left their native land,--
Dear German-land! O sacred hearths and homes!--
And, where the wild beast roams,
In patience planned
New forrest homes beyond the mighty sea,
Then undisturbed and free
To live as brothers of one family.
What pains and cares befell,
What trials and what fears,
Remember, and wherein we have done well
Follow our footsteps, men of coming years!
Where we have failed to do
Aright, or wisely live,
Be warned by us, the better way to pursue,
And, knowing we were human, even as you,
Pity us and forgive!
Farewell, Posterity!
Farewell, dear Germany!
Forevermore farewell!
THE SETTLEMENT OF GERMANTOWN
The first settlers of Germantown came from the country of the lower Rhine,
not far from the borders of Holland. The purchase of land was made through
the Frankfort Company, of which Francis Daniel Pastorius was the agent in
America for a number of years.
In 1683, thirteen famlies, including in all thirty-three persons, set out
from Crefeld, their native town, for London, where passage had been engaged
for them to Pennsylvania in the ship Concord, by James Claypole, a Quaker
merchant of that city, who was to be their fellow passenger. On the 24th of
July they sailed from London, and arrived in Philadelphia the 6th of
October. They were met on landing by Pastorius who had preceded them a few
weeks. On the 23th of October, Thomas Fairman, the surveyor of the
Province, laid out their land in the township, afterwards called Germantown,
and on the next day the immigrants met in the cave of Pastorius on the bank
of the Delaware and made selections of the plots of land by lot. Having
done this, they proceeded at once to clear their land and erect dwellings
before the winter should overtake them.
The following are the names of the thirteen settlers:
Abraham Op den Graeff Thones Kunders
Herman Op den Graeff Reynier Tyson
Lenart Arets Jan Lucken
Jan Seimens Johannes Bleikers
Willem Streypers Peter Keurlis
Jan Lensen Abraham Tunes
Dirck Op den Graeff
They were all Friends or Mennonites, but just how they were divided between
these two bodies is not known. Before their departure from Germany there
had been a Friends' Monthly Meeting held at Crefeld, which was discontinued
immediately after their departure, indicating that all or nearly all the
full body of members had gone. By 1690 when the village of Germantown had
grown to forty-four families, twenty-eight of them were Friends and the
other sixteen of other religious faiths.
The next year (1684) other immigrants arrived and thereafter a steady flow
of settlers from Germany and the Rhine provinces cme to Pennsylvania, the
majority passing through Germantown. Many remained in the town, among them
the ancestors of some of our present day families,- the Keysers, Shoemakers,
Johnsons, Rittenhouses, Leverings, Sauers, etc. Germantown was the threshold
over which entered the new country, the various German sects, the Dunkards,
Lutherans, Swenkfelders, etc., now occupying the southeastern portion of
Pennsylvania.
On the 13th of February, 1694, a number of Pietists, originally from
Germany, embarked at London on the ship Sarah Maria for Pennsylvania. After
many adventures the ship entered the Chesapeake and landed the immigrants in
Maryland, whence they journeyed overland to Germantown. These men, with
Johannes Kelpius, as their Superior, took up their residence on the Ridge,
as the high land between the Wissahickon and Schuykill is called. Here they
built a tabernacle of logs. They spent their time mostly in seclusion,
engaged in religious devotion, in the study of astronomy and the occult
arts. These men gradually passed away, the Hermitage in Hermits' Lane, near
the Wissahickon, being one of the few reminders of their existence.
The early settlers brought with them the habits of industry and thrift which
characterize the German race. In addition to the cultivation of the soil,
which was never their main dependence, they brought various trades with
them. Many were linen weavers. In 1686 Abraham Op den Graeff petitioned
the Council to grant him the Governor's premium for "The first and finest
piece of linen cloth", and as early as 1692 Richard Fraeme wrote:
"The Germantown of which I spoke before
Which is at least in length one mile or more,
Where lives High German people and Low Dutch
Whose trade in weaving cloth is much.--
Here grows the Flax as also you may know
That from the same they do divide the tow."
Later the manufacture of stockings from the famous Germantown wool was begun
and by 1760 the Rev. Andrew Burnaby writes:--"The Germantown thread
stockings are in high estimation and the year before last I have been
credibly informed there were manufactured in that town alone above 60,000
dozen pairs, their common retail price a dollar per pair."
"The earliest settlers used to make good linens and vend them in
Philadelphia. They were also distinguished, even till modern times, for
their fabric of Germantown stockings. This fact induced the bank of
Germantown to adopt a seal, with such a loom upon it. The linen sellers and
weavers used to stand with the goods for sale on the edge of the pavement in
Market Street, on the north side, near to Second Street corner. The
cheapness of imported stockings is now ruining their business." --Watson's
Annals.
The Borough of Germantown early adopted a label to mark their goods so that
their excellent quality would be more easily recognised.
About this time the tanning industry had assumed considerable importance, as
the following letter from John Morgan, Jr., dated at Reading, PA., December
23, 1777, while Philadelphia was occupied by the British Army shows:
"I understand that all the stocking weavers at Germantown with their
looms and out of work supposed to be one hundred, also six or seven tanners
who have large tan yards full of leather, part of which is nearly tanned;
they might easily be removed.
Query:--Are they not objects of notice of Council? Should the enemy
determine to stay or leave Philadelphia this winter they will probably
destroy them which would be a great loss to this State."
As has been pointed out elsewhere, the manufacture of paper was first begun
in Germantown in 1690.
This pre-eminence in manufacturing, first encouraged by the character and
skill of the early settlers and carried on by them in their homes, has
continued to the present time, as the great number of factories and
important manufacturing plants in the neighborhood testify.
THE ANCIENT TOWN
For many years Germantown consisted of a long, straggling village extending
for nearly two miles along the Main Street. The appearance of the town was
thoroughly German and continued so down through the period of the
Revolution. The language of conversation among the inhabitants was mainly
in German, until even a later period. The prevalence of yellow fever in
Philadelphia in 1793 and again in later years caused many Philadelphians to
take up their residence in Germantown, which made many changes in the
language and customs of the town.
As originally laid out, there were to be four distinct villages along the
Main road, all within the limits of what is now Germantown.
Roughly their boundaries were: GERMANTOWN from the present Wayne Junction to
the Abington Road, now Washington Lane, CRESHEIM from this point to about
the Mermaid Tavern, SOMMERHAUSEN to about one-eighth of a mile above
Chestnut Hill and CREFELDT to Streeper's Mill, which was where the turnpike
crosses the Wissahickon at the foot of Chestnut Hill.
In later years the settlement above Upsal Street, surrounding the Dunkard
Church, was called Beggarstown, for the origin of which name there are
several theories. This name has, however, passed entirely away, but in the
dispatches and descriptions of the Battle of Germantown, it is frequently used.
The early homes of the settlers were first of logs and later of the rough,
dark, native stone. Built with their gables in the road, they had
over-hanging hipped roofs and a projecting pent over the doorstep, as is
still seen in the Engle house, No. 5938 Main Street; the door was divided in
the middle to keep out stray animals, but with the upper portion open to
admit air and light; on either side of the front door were little benches;
the windows were small, usually swinging on hinges.
The sombre coloring of the houses, the solidity and air of comfort and
thrift surrounding them, the rows of trees along the streets, the orchards
and spacious farm buildings in the rear, are mentioned as prominent
characteristics by many of the early travelers who have described the village.
As the tracts of land along Main Street were sold and divided up, they
usually retained their full depth, so that the owners might have their wood
and pasture lots in the rear, with the house on the Main street. As more
land was sold, these strips became still more narrow, so that at the time of
the Revolution, it was over and through these dividing walls and fences that
the divisions of the American Army were compelled to advance, greatly
retarding their progress and affording protection to the retreating British.
At the centre of the town was the market place and at the upper and lower
ends were the two public burial grounds. On the east were several mills run
by the waters of the Wingohocking, then a considerable stream, and on the
west were even a greater number scattered along the Wissahickon. The cross
roads of the town connected it with these mills and the ferry over the
Schuylkill. The Abington Road, now Washington Lane, led to Abington
Meeting. It was many years before any streets parallel with the Main street
were opened.
About the middle of the eighteenth century, owing to the increase in wealth
in Pennsylvania and particularly in Germantown, and the coming to the town
of wealthy Philadelphians who made their summer homes here, larger and
better houses were built, of which the Dirck Keyser house, No. 6205 Main
Street, is an example. There are yet many of these well built houses
remaining and it is to arouse public sentiment to an appreciation of their
artistic beauty, that they may be spared for many years as monuments of the
early architecture, that the Site and Relic Society of Germantown has been
formed.
THE MAIN STREET
Germantown Avenue, Germantown Road, or the Great Road, as it was anciently
called, is said to follow what was an old Indian trail. It is still quite
crooked although it has been straightened some. As late as 1777, the year
of the Battle, there were less than six cross roads. It therefore follows
that what is of most historic interest is centered in the buildings along
the Main Street, those on the cross streets being comparatively modern. But
outlying at some distance, both on the east and west, there are historic
points which come within the compass of what is now Germantown. It is
proposed, as a matter of convenience, to take the visitor along the Main
Street with very short side trips from it and then refer to the historic
sites on each side of the town which can best be visited in separate
expeditions.
Years ago the Germantown Road was called the worst road in the United
States. The soil was of such a nature that in summer it was ground to fine,
choking dust, while in winter and spring it was almost impassable, on
account of the mud, for wheeled vehicles. The story is told of a gentleman
who was building a house on the other side of the road from his home, and
saddled his horse to ride across in safety. In 1800-1 the road was
macadamized, forming part of the Germantown and Perkiomen Turnpike. The old
toll house stood at Rittenhouse Street. Some of the mile stones erected by
the Turnpike Company are still standing, one being at the corner of Main
Street and Cliveden Avenue.
"Another great era of public benefit, now but little considered, was the
formation of the Germantown turnpike --- a measure got up chiefly through
the exertions of Casper Haines. The common road through Germantown, before
this time, at the breaking up of winter, as well as at some other times, was
impassable for wheel carriages. To that cause it was that most of the
marketing, going through the place to Philadelphia, was all carried on
horseback with side pannniers and hampers, and most of the horses were
ridden by women. Think what a relief they have had since those days! It is
a well known fact that horses and carriages have been swamped and lost! In
going through the town, (now all well paved), their horses would enter the
mud to their knees at every step, and not being able to progress faster than
two or three miles and hour, and then often endangered. Now what a change
do we witness! No men or women now on horseback with marketing, but going
with easy spring dearborns at five or six miles an hour, as easy and safe as
if in state carriages. Even wagon loads of hay can be seen sometimes
passing in a trot!" --Watson's Annals
Starting at Wayne Junction, which we may well consider the southern boundry
of the town, we should first make a short excursion to Stenton, four or five
squares distant. The Pennsylvania Society of Colonial Dames has erected a
sign post under the railroad bridge and one at each corner until Stenton is
reached. The property is now in their charge and open at any time on
application to the caretaker, but the best time to visit is Saturday
afternoons during May and June, and again in October, when the building is
open and tea is served by the ladies of the Society to their guests. The
house is partially furnished. The admission fee is 15 cents.
Stenton was erected by James Logan, for many years William Penn's able and
faithful secretary, in 1727-34. The house is 55 feet front by 42 feet deep,
with servants' quarters attached at the rear. From the cellar is an
underground passageway leading to the stables, and some say, to the family
burial ground beyond.
Stenton was occupied by General Washington on the evening of August 23,
1777, when the American Army was on its way to oppose Howe at Brandywine,
and General Howe was quartered here later at the time of the Battle.
Washington also dined with Dr. Logan, Sunday, July 8th, 1787, when he was
attending the Constitutional Convention in Philadelphia.
During the winter of British occupation, an order was issued to burn all the
mansions between Germantown and Philadelphia, and seventeen were consumed at
one time. Stenton is said to have been saved by the ready wit of the old
colored woman left in charge. The two British dragoons who came to burn it
went to the barn to get some straw to start the flames. While they were
gone, a British officer rode up looking for deserters. The old woman, in
answer to his question, said she had seen two men who looked like deserters
and that they had just gone to the barn. Just then the soldiers returned
and despite their indignant protests and explanations, the officer seized
them and marched them off to the provost guard. Stenton was saved for the
time and the efforts to burn it were not repeated.
Nos.4518 and 4520 Main Street is the old house of the Neglees. At the time
of the Battle it was occupied by two sisters. As one of them was feeding
the chickens, she was startled by the noise of firearms. She quickly
retired to the house and locked the windows and doors. After the battle,
two straggling "Red Coats" entered the house and asked for something to eat.
One of the soldiers asked "Had the army gone down yet?" to which one of the
sisters replied: "Which army, the American or British?" This so angered the
questioner that he drew his bayonet, and rushing toward her, would have
injured her had not her sister interfered. After the war the sister first
named married John Harshey, a Hessian, who was captured by Washington at
Trenton and who settled in this counrty, becoming a valued citizen.
The hill which starts at this point has been called Logan's Hill, but the
common name is Neglee's Hill, from the Neglee family whose house appears
nearby on a map of 1750.
The large house standing out on the brow of the hill, northwest corner of
Apsley and Main Streets, was built in 1801 by Thomas Armat for his son. It
is called "Loudoun" from the fact that Thomas Armat first settled in Loudoun
County, VA. At the time of the Battle, the wounded Americans were carried
to the top of the hill on which the house stands, and later removed in
wagons to the city. It is said many of the dead were buried here. The house
is now occupied by the Logan family, descendants alike of James Logan, of
Stenton, and Thomas Armat.
No. 4810 Main Street, is the Toland house, built about 1740. At the time of
the Battle, the house was the home of George Miller, an officer in the
American army. On the night of the arrival of the British army in
Germantown, more than a dozen officers were quartered here. Jacob Miller,
the son of George, related in later life his experience with them. Among
other incidents, one of the officers was taken ill, and Jacob, armed with a
pass, was sent for assisance. At every little distance along the road, he
was challenged by a sentinel, but he got what was wanted and returned in
safety. Jacob's mother was set to work baking bread for the officers. She
was required to return in weight an amount equal to the flour she received,
and as 100 pounds of flour will make about 130 pounds of bread, she had
considerable flour left to pay her for her trouble.
No. 4817 Main Street has been called the Mehl house for the family that
occupied it a hundred years ago. Some soldiers killed in the Battle are
said to have been buried at the gateway.
No. 4825 Main Street, the Ottinger house, was built in 1781 by Christopher
Ottinger, a soldier of the Pennsylvania line, who volunteered at the age of
17. The walls are two feet thick, even the partition on the first floor
being of stone. The rafters of the rear building are of unhewn trees.
Captain Douglas Ottinger, son of the above, the inventor of the Ottinger
life car, was born here December 11th, 1804. In 1849 he equipped eight
life-saving stations on the New Jersey coast with complete and effective
life-saving apparatus. He was a captain in the U.S.Revenue Marine.
No. 4840 Main Street, called the Wagner house, was used as one of the main
hospitals after the Battle. The big wooden doors of the stable in the rear
were taken from their hinges and arranged as operating tables. The house
belonged to Samuel Mechlin and his family, who left Germantown on the
arrival of the British army. Mechlin was a tanner and everything of value
about the house was seized, including a quantity of hides which were
afterward recovered. The floors still show the blood stains of the wounded.
Seventy years ago some workmen in digging a post hole unearthed a number of
relics which evidently had belonged to Hessian soldiers. The house was
built in 1747.
No. 4908 Main Street is called the Henry house, having been in possession of
that family for many years. The
oldest portion was erected in 1760, but additions were made later. In 1828,
it was bought by John S. Henry, the father of Alexander Henry, three times
mayor of the city and member of Congress. The latter passed here the
greater portion of his youth.
Opposite the Henry house, occupying the northeast corner of East Logan
street and Main Street, is the Lower Germantown Burial Ground, sometimes
called Hood's Burying Ground. Here are the remains of many of the early
families of Germantown and their descendants. Note the quaint old
gravestone built in the corner of the wall with its inscription, "Memendo
Mory" and symbolic cross-bones. Also the stone some thirty feet from Main
Street and ten from the north wall, erected by John F. Watson, the annalist,
over the graves of General Agnew an Colonel Bird, British officers, killed
at the Battle of Germantown. Near the front gateway is the grave of
Christian Frederick Post, a noted Moravian missionary to the Indians. The
oldest stone in the yard is that of Joseph Coulson, 1707-8. Note also the
stone with the inscription:
"He was noble hearted & amiable &
Intelligent, having been awarded
A silver goblet for a literary
Production at the age of 18."
The marble wall at the front was erected with money left for the purpose by
William Hood, a resident of Germantown, who accumulated wealth and died in
Paris in 1850. The graveyard was presented to the borough of Germantown in
1693 by Jan Streepers.
No. 5109 Main street occupies the site of Thones Kunder's home, one of the
original settlers of Germantown, and, so far as we know, the only house of
an original immigrant that can be accurately located. Notice the north wall
of the building: while it has all been plastered over, you will observe that
a portion of it, about ten feet high and extending back, is of a different
shade from the remainder of the wall. It is thought that this is the old
wall of Thones Kunder's original dwelling, and it is said, in the many
plasterings the house has had, they have never been able to get the old
portion and the new to be exactly the same shade.
The first meetings of the Society of Friends in Germantown were held at this
house, and it was from the members of this little meeting that a public
protest against slavery was issued as early as 1688. The paper was written
by Pastorius, signed by him and three others, and, being appropriately
referred to their monthly and quarterly meetings, it was forwarded to and
weightily considered in the yearly meeting at Burlington.
Thones Kunders was a dyer by trade. His death occured in the fall of 1729.
He was the ancestor of the Conard and Conrad families. Among his
descendants is included Sir Samuel Cunard, the founder of the Cunard
Steamship Line.
One square west, on the south side of Manheim Street, at the southwest
corner of Manheim and Portico Streets, is the house once owned by Jacques
Marie Roset, born in France in 1765, who came to this country 1792. While
passing up Chestnut Street on his arrival, with several of his countrymen,
they met General Washington, who, recognizing them as Frenchmen, saluted
them in French, "Bien vien en Amerique," an incident which Roset remembered
with pleasure during his life. He died in his 80th year and is buried in
the Lutheran ground. A daughter of his oldest son, Mr. John Roset, married
the late Anthony J. Drexel. Notice the stone on the Spring Alley side of
the house; also the one in front naming the street Manheim Square. Mr.
Roset lived on the opposite side of the street. It was he who first
introduced the tomato plant into Germantown.
Somewhat farther out, No. 153 Manheim street, is White Cottage, the home of
the Betton family. Dr. Samuel Betton married a daughter of Colonel Thomas
Forrest. Immediately opposite the house, in Revolutionary times, was
Taggart's field, where the British infantry were hutted.
No. 5106 Main Street was occupied by Commodore James Barron in 1842, when in
command of the Philadelphia Navy Yard. It was he who was in command of the
Chesapeake when she was fired upon by the British ship Leopard, June 23,
1807, and who killed Stephen Decatur in a duel in the famous duelling ground
at Bladensburg, MD., March 23, 1820.
The giant buttonwood tree, on the west side of Main street above Manheim,
stood in front of what early in the last century was the Buttonwood Tavern,
which succeeded "Ye Roebuck Inn", which was its name in Revolutionary
times. There were two of these trees standing side by side. George Heft
bought the property in 1819. The old inn was torn down to make way for the
present house. The property is still in possession of the Heft family.
No 5151 Main Street was the home of Philip R. Freas, who in 1830 started the
Village Telegraph, later the Germantown Telegraph, for many years one of the
most influential papers in the country adjacent to Philadelphia. When the
Native American riots broke out in Philadelphia in 1844, the Telegraph was
the only paper in Philadelphia which fearlessly upheld Sheriff Morton
McMichael in his efforts to promptly subdue the riot. He edited the paper
until 1885, when he retired. The little building next door was the
newspaper office. In the rear of his home was a beautiful garden with rare
trees and shrubbery, but this has now made way for rows of dwelling houses.
Philip R. Freas did April 1, 1886.
No 5140 Main Street was occupied by Gilbert Stuart, the famous painter,
1794-5. While living in Philadelphia his daughter says: "My father at this
time was so inundated with visitors, he found it impossible to attend to his
profession." He consequently removed to Germantown, occupying this house
and fitting up a barn in the rear as his studio.
The second story or barn floor was used as the studio proper, while the
lower floor was used to mix paints, etc. For many years, indeed until the
barn was destroyed by an incendiary fire, marks of paint were observable on
the walls. A small portion of the walls of the barn remained after the
fire, and these were carefully preserved and covered with ivy until within a
year or two, when they were removed.
Here, on the authority of Gilbert Stuart's daughter, was pained the famous
portrait of Washington, now in possession of the Athenaeum of Boston. The
story is told that when Washington visited the studio for his sittings, he
was in the habit of walking into the garden and eating fruit from an apple
tree which was standing within a few yards. On the authority of Watson,
here also was executed a full length portrait of Cornplanter, the famous
Indian chief.
Nos. 5203 and 5205 Main Street, formerly one dwelling house, is now well on
to a century old. At one time it was occupied by Dr. Theodore Ashmead and
later by Dr. Betton. Here July 14, 1860, was born Owen Wister, the
distinguished story writer. His parents were Dr. Owen J. and Sarah Butler
Wister, the latter a daughter of Pierce and Fanny Kemble Butler. The family
were residing here temporarily while the house 5253 Main Street was being
built by Dr. Wister. The Wisters continued liviing at 5253 Main street
until 1870, when they removed to Butler Place on the York Road. See
reference to the latter in another chapter.
St. Stephen's Methodist Church was opened in 1856. The story is told that
it was then such a plain and unpretentious building that it was often
mistaken for a factory. When in 1857 a new pastor came to take charge,
bringing his family with him, his daughter on catching sight of the building
exclaimed, "Oh, Papa, what factory is that?" "That, my daughter," he
replied "is the factory I am going to work in." The present attractive
building gives no indication of its plain beginning.
On this site stood the carpenter shop of Frederick Fraley. Tradition says
that these shops were used for the manufacture of gun carriages for the
American army and that they were burned by the British during the
Revolution. Watson mentions that Washington was a frequent visitor at
Fraley's carpenter shops. In later years the latter was a drum maker.
No. 5214 Main Street has been called the Hacker house, from the fact that
for a long period it was occupied by Isaiah Hacker. It marks a position of
the British Army's encampment in Germantown, as the following paragraph will
disclose:
"The main body of the British occupied ground nearly at right angles
with the main street. The front line on the Schoolhouse Lane to the west,
and the Church Lane (its opposite) to the east. The park was in the area,
south of the market-house, and fronting the house of David Deshler (now S.B.
Morris'), in which General Howe had his quarters. The second line formed a
parallel, at about one-fourth of a mile in the rear, and flanking the road
near the old six-mile stone, before the door of H. Conyngham, Esq."
--Watson's Annals.
No. 5219 Main Street was owned from 1775 until his death in 1795 by John
Bringhurst. He was a prominent citizen of Germantown and one of the
founders of the Academy. He was among the first to engage in the building
of the well-known "Germantown" wagons. In 1780 he built a "chariot" for
General Washington, the price of which was L210 (210 pounds) in gold.
Washington was particular that it have his "arms and crest properly disp'd
of on the chariot." When Martha Washington set out for Mount Vernon in June
1780, she rode in the new vehicle. Bringhurst's "Big House", southeast
corner Main and Bringhurst Streets, now occupied by a store, is where
Colonel Bird, one of the British officers wounded in the Battle, died,
saying as he passed away: "Woman, pray for me. I leave a wife and four
children in England". In 1760, John Bringhurst and his brother George
conveyed the ground used by the school to the trustees of the Germantown
Academy. For many years John was one of the trustees.
No. 5253 Main Street is the house that occupies the site of what was
Christopher Sauer's home and printing establishment. Christopher Sauer, his
wife and their son Christopher reached Germantown in 1724. Later they
removed to Lancaster County, but father and son returned to Germantown in
1731. In 1738, he secured a printing outfit from Germany and in 1739 he
began to issue the first German newspaper in America. In 1743 he issued the
first Bible in an European language printed in America. This was forty
years before an English Bible was printed in the colonies. Subsequent
editions were issued by Christopher Sauer,2d, in 1763 and 1776. Here also
was printed in 1770 the first book in America on the subject of education.
Christopher Sauer, the father, died September 25th, 1758. The son had
become a Bishop of the Dunkard Church in 1753, but continued printing until
the Revolution, when, because he would not take the oath of allegiance to
the State, his printing effects were seized and sold. He died August 26th,
1784, poor.
The old house stood close to the street, with a building in the rear,
which was the printing plant. The Sauers cast the first type made in
America about the year 1772 or 1773.
"As Printing Types are now made to a considerable degree of perfection by
an ingenious Artist in Germantown; it is recommended to the Printers to use
such Types, in preference to any which may be hereafter imported".
--Pennsylvania Gazette, February 1, 1775.
The house and outbuildings were removed and replaced by the present
dwelling about the year 1860.
Nos. 5242 and 5244 Main Street, now a store, was formerly the Indian Queen,
a noted tavern, which gave name to the street alongside. This was formerly
Bowman's Lane, then Indian Queen Lane, and now Queen street. It was about
at this point the following incident occurred:
"The British, shortly after the Battle, concentrated in Philadelphia and
vicinity. Directly after they left Germantown, a troop of American horsemen
came through the town upon their rear, so closely that a British surgeon,
who had just left dressing the wounds of three American officers, prisoners
in the widow Hess' house, was overtaken on foot in the street. When they
were about to arrest him, W. Fryhoffer, who saw it, and knew the facts of
the case, proclaimed his useful services, and he was told to walk to the
city at his ease. In the meantime, the three officers were taken as prizes
and thus unexpectedly liberated. The same troop, advancing a little
further, encountered a Quaker-looking man in a chaise, who, in trepidation,
made a short turn at Bowman's Lane and upset, and thus exposed a large
basketfull of plate. He and his treasure were captured and ordered off to
headquarters."---Watson's Annals.
No. 5261 Main Street, the Wister house, was erected by John Wister in 1744,
and the property is now in possession of his great grandson, Mr. Charles J.
Wister. The stones for the building were quarried from a hill in the rear
of the property and the joists hewn from oaks in the Wister woods, a portion
of which is still standing. It was so much larger than the average house of
the time that it was known as Wister's "big" house.
During the fall of 1777 the house had been left in charge of a German
servant, Justina. The family had gone to Penllyn, Montgonery County, to
escape possible annoyance by the British army, and it was while here that
Sally Wister, a daughter of the house, wrote the ever charming Diary* giving
vivid accounts of country life at that trying and exciting time. *Sally
Wister's Journal will be found in Pennsylvania Magazine, Vols. IX and X;
also in Howard M. Jenkins' Historical Collections Relating to Gwynedd.
When the British entered Germantown the house was occupied by General
James Agnew. On the morning of the battle, Justina was at work in the
garden and as General Agnew rode away, he advised her to seek a place of
safety. Justina, however, worked away unmindful of the happenings around
her, and it was not long before General Agnew was carried back to the house
"bleeding at every vein". He was laid on the floor in the northwest parlor.
His blood still stains the floor boards, having resisted a century and more
of spring and fall cleanings. General Agnew was buried with Colonel Bird in
the Lower Burial Ground.
No. 5267 Main Street, while one of the oldest-looking houses along the Main
Street, seems not to possess any particular historical interest.
Seventy-five years ago one Anthony Gilbert, a blacksmith who lived here, was
noted for his great physical strength. He was known to write his name on a
board fence with a piece of chalk, with five fifty-six-pound weights hanging
on his arm.
No. 5300 Main Street, now the parsonage of the Trinity Lutheran Church, was
one of the Sauer properties. (See mention of the Sauers.) The Sauers were
accused of aiding the enemy, and Christopher Sauer, the elder, suffered many
indignities at the hands of the American soldiers.
There is a tradition that the type which was cast by the Sauers, the
first to be cast in America 1772-1773, was made in the cellar of this building.
Nos. 5275 and 5277 Main Street was occupied by the Germantown National Bank
from 1825 to 1868. The Annalist, Watson, who was the cashier, is authority
for the statement that this building had been at one time occupied by Thomas
Jefferson, Secretary of State, and Edmund Randolph, Attorney General of the
United States.
The yellow fever prevailing in Philadelphia, and Congress being soon to
meet, Jefferson proceeded to Germantown, arriving there in company with
President Washington, November, 1793. The next day he wrote to his friend,
James Madison:
"According to present appearances this place cannot lodge a single
person more. As a great favor, I got a bed in the corner of the public room
of a tavern; and must continue till some of the Philadelphians make a
vacancy by removing into the city. Then we must give him from 4 to 6 or 8
dollars a week for cuddies without a bed, and sometimes without a chair or
table. There is not a single lodging house in the place (vacant?)."
Jefferson no doubt was successful in finding a lodging in this house, for
on November 17th, he again wrote to Madison:
"I have got good lodging for Monroe and yourself; that is to say, a
good room with a fire place and two beds, in a pleasant and convenient
position, with a quiet family. They will breakfast you, but you must mess
in a tavern; there is a good one across the street. This is the way all
must do, and all I think will not be able to get even half-beds."
About the first of December, danger from the fever having abated, Washington
and the members of his cabinet moved into Philadelphia.
East Penn Street used to be called Shoemaker's Lane for Shoemaker's big
house which stood on the northeast corner of this and the Main Street. A
short distance beyond the Reading Railway on the left hand side going out is
the Rock House. Its origin is unknown, but it is said to be one of the
oldest houses in Philadelphia. The low ground behind it at one time was
called Mehl's meadow, and, with the Wingohocking Creek winding through it,
was a delightful spot. William Penn is said to have preached at one time,
from this elevation to the people assembled below him in the meadow. In
this meadow, before the Battle, some of the British cavalry had their
encampment.
St Luke's Church, at northeast corner of Main and Coulter Streets, was the
first Episcopal congregation organized in Germantown (1811). The church
then contained about twelve families in and about Germantown. The first
building on the present site was erected in 1818 and it has been enlarged
and altered many times since.
The Friends' Meeting (connected with Arch Street Yearly Meeting), occupies
the grounds in the rear of the Linden hotel, northwest corner of Coulter and
Main Street.
It has never been fully determiined just how many of the first settlers
of Germantown were members of the Society of Friends, but a meeting was
established very soon after their arrival. It first met at the home of
Thones Kunders, now 5109 Main Street, and at other private houses. Jacob
Shoemaker early gave the meeting three square perches of land, and the
presumption is a log meeting house was erected on it. In 1693 he conveyed
to the meeting fifty acres, of which the three square perches was a portion,
and on this lot in the present old graveyard, along the Main Street, a stone
meeting house was erected in 1705. This was replaced in 1812 by another
building, which stood where the present school building stands, and this in
turn was succeeded by the present building. The old stone has been placed
in an adjoining committee building.
"Philadelphia, June 5. Yesterday forenoon in the Meeting House of the
People called "Quakers at Germantown", died suddenly of an Apopletic Fit,
ISAAC NORRIS of FAIRHILL, esq.; who for a long time most worthily presided
in the County Court of Quarter Sessions and Common Pleas, PHILADELPHIA, was
a Member of Council upwards of 30 years and been often chosen one of the
People's Representations in the Legislature of this Province, as he was in
this Year for the County of PHILADELPHIA. His great Abilities in the
Discharge of his Duty in each of these Stations, made him to be justly
esteemed one of the most considerable men in this Government." --American
Weekly Mercury, June 5th, 1735.
In the Free Library, which is under the care of Friends of this meeting,
will be found a photograph of the Protest against Slavery which has been
referred to. (See 5109 Main Street).
The Masonic Hall, No. 5425 Main Street, occupies the site of a building
in which at one time A. Bronson Alcott lived, and here the distinguished
authoress, Louisa M. Alcott, was born. Mr. Alcott came to Germantown to
take charge of a school. The following letter to Colonel May, dated
Germantown, November 29th, 1832, gives the information in regard to the
interesting event:
"Dear Sir: - It is with great pleasure that I announce to you the birth
of a second daughter. She was born at half past 12 this morning, on my
birthday (33) and is a very fine healthful child, and has a fine foundation
for health and energy of character. Abba, inclines to have her called
Louisa May, a name to her full of every association connected with amiable
benevolence and exalted worth. I hope its present possessor may rise to
equal attainment and deserve a place in the estimation of Society. Yours,
A. Bronson Alcott."
The family removed from Germantown when Louisa Alcott was about two years
of age.
No. 5430 Main Street was the home of Captain Albert Ashmead. His father,
John Ashmead, lived next door above, 5435. When the British army entered
Germantown, Thursday morning, September 25th, 1777, little John Ashmead,then
a boy of twelve, sat on the front stoop and saw them pass---tired and
covered with dust. While the Battle was in progress he ran out into the
street, but was captured and taken to the cellar of 'Squire Ferree's home,
nearly opposite. After the Battle, he sallied forth and recovered two
cannon balls, one an English and the other American, which have remained in
possession of the family since.
Captain Albert Ashmead commanded a troop of country cavalry and escorted
General Lafayette from Trenton to Philadelphia, when the latter visited this
country.
William Ashmead, grandfather of Albert, was the first, soon after the
Revolution, to manufacture the well known Germantown wagons, his shop being
in the rear of these houses, and the house, No. 5430, was used as a show
room, the ceilings being made high particularly for this purpose. When
Captain Albert Ashmead married, the house was altered to accommodate him.
"The first introduction of carriage building was somewhat curious. Mr.
William Ashmead, a smith, observing the heavy build of the coaches of his
day, and that they were mostly imported, if intended to be of a superior
kind, bethought him to form an open-front light carriage, on his own plan.
When it was done, it was admired by many, and was often called for by the
wealthy who wished to travel to distances; --among these was Mr. Bingham.
They engaged it at a dollar a day, and it was in constant demand. At last,
a gentleman from Maryland, who had seen it, came to the place to buy it. It
was not for sale; but he offered L120 (120 Pounds) for it, and took it.
Then another and another was built, and orders were renewed upon Mr.
Ashmead. Soon, increased demand occurred; and his son John being made a
carriage maker, received numerous orders for many kinds of light carriages,
and especially for phaetons. About the same time, (the time of the
Revolution and afterwards), Mr Bringhurst, who was at the time a chaise
maker, went largely into the making of carriages. Coaches and chariots were
made for L200 and phaetons for L100."
"The same William Ashmead, as a smith, had made himself a plough with a
wrought iron mould-board, which was found to be a great improvement; and so
much admired by Lafayette, who saw its utility, that he purchased four of
them for his La Grange farm in France. No patent was taken; and in time
some other person, following the hint, made the same thing of cast iron --
such as is now in general use." --Watson's Annals.
The Market Square, now occupied as an open park, was the centre of the
activity of the town. There was originally an acre of ground reserved from
the Frankfort Company's land, but it was not centrally located, and was
subsequently sold, and at the same time, in 1703-4, the Bailiff's, etc.,
"For the common good and to purchase a place nearer the now midst in the
centre of said town," bought of James De La Plaine, a half acre representing
the present Market Square. Here for many years and until recent times, was
the market house. Here also was the engine house of the Fellowship Fire
Engine Company, one of the three early volunteer companies of the town. For
a complete account of this fire company see "Pennsylvania Magazine of
History," Vol. xviii, page 429. The fire company removed to Armat Street in
1850 and the little old engine house was removed to the rear of 164 School
House Lane, where it still serves as a play house.
Here also at one time was the prison, the stocks and the public scales.
Delegations of Indians on their way to the city would stop in Germantown and
were fed at the Market Square. A table often used for their dinner is still
preserved by the Ashmeads.
Here, February 6th, 1764, several hundred Paxtang boys from the banks of
the Conestoga and Susquehanna, then the frontier, on their way to murder the
peaceful Moravian Indians who had taken shelter in Philadelphia, were met by
Benjamin Franklin, Benjamin Chew, Thomas Willing, Thomas Galloway and others
and persuaded to return to their homes. Philadelphia had been thrown into a
state of great excitement which must in a measure have been communicated to
Germantown, for the Lutheran pastor in the city came out to take part with
the mob.
The monument now occupying the square was erected in 1883 by Germantown
to her soldiers in the Civil War. The principal part of the monument is
built of Quincy granite. The top block, on which the soldier stands, is a
piece of granite from Devil's Den, Gettysburg. The soldier is cut from
Westerly granite. The four mortars were used for coast defence during the
Civil War. The two bronze cannon on wheels were taken from the United
States arsenal by Southern sympathizers during the war, but were
subsequently recovered by Union troops. One of them has cut upon it, a
Confederate flag, and the name of a Confederate officer who was killed while
seving the gun. The enclosure is made of musket barrels and bayonets used
during the war.
The broken cannon on the north side was part of the armament of the
British frigate Augusta, sunk by the American batteries while the vessel was
attempting to reach Philadelphia during the Revolutionary War. The crown and
British monogram "G. R." are on it. The muzzle was blown away by an
American cannon ball. Some thirty years ago in removing obstructions from
the river channel, the vessel was raised and this gun recovered.
The shell on the south side was presented to the Confederacy by some
friends in England in connection with a battery of Whitworth guns.
The cannon on the east of the monument has been in Germantown for many
years and was used to fire salutes, etc. On the sides of the monument are
found:
Coat of Arms of the United States, with a quotation from one of Webster's
speeches.
Coat of Arms of Pennsylvania, with a quotation from William Penn's writings.
Coat of Arms of the City of Philadelphia, with a quotatiion from the
Gospel by Luke.
A badge of the Grand Army of the Republic.
The Memorial Tablets at the corners contain the names of Soldiers and
Sailors serving for the Suppression of the Rebellion, and residents at the
time of their enlistment in the 22nd and 42nd Wards, or who subsequent to
this war moved into this territory and died there.
Tablet 1 contains, in chronologicl and alphabetical order, the names of
those who died or were killed during the years 1861-65.
Tablet 2 contains, in alphabetical order, the names of those who died
after 1865 and before May 30, 1900.
Tablet 3 contains, the same, with the latter half of the alphabet, and
Tablet 4 the names of those who died between May 30, 1900. and January 1, 1901.
No. 5442 Main Street, the Morris house, opposite the square, was the
residence of Washington during a portion of 1793 and 1794. It was built in
1772-3 by David Deshler, "As honest as David Deshler" is remembered of him.
After the Battle, Sir William Howe, who before the event had made his
headquarters at Stenton, occupied this house. The house was later bought by
Colonel Isaac Franks and by him leased to Washington who occupied it during
the month of November, 1793, when the yellow fever drove many of the
inhabitants of the city to safe places. An item in Colonel Frank's cash
account is of interest: "Cash paid for cleaning my house and putting it in
the same condition the President received it in, $2.50." The total payment,
including the rent, was $131.56, which covered Colonel Frank's traveling
expenses to and from Bethlehem, the hire of furniture and bedding for his
own family, the loss of one flat iron, valued at one shilling, of one large
fork, four plates, three ducks, four fowls, one bushel of potatoes and one
hundred of hay."
In the following year, 1794, Washington occupied it during the heated
period of the summer from July 30th to September 20th. Under date of
September 24, 1794, the following entry occurs in his cash book: "Isaac
Franks in Full for House rent &c. at Germantown pr rect. $201.60."
The house is about forty feet square, and it is said the front would have
been wider had David Dresher not wanted to spare a plum tree which stood at
the side. The yard at the side and rear has been kept in the simple
elegance of the colonial time and is altogether a charming spot.
"General Washington, while residing here in 1793 was a frequent walker
abroad up the Main Street, and daily rode out on horseback, or in his
Phaeton. So that everybody here was familiar with the personal appearance
of that eminent man. When he and his family attended the English preaching,
in the Dutch Church, at the market house, they always occupied the seat
fronting the pulpit. It was also his own practice to attend the German
preaching, thus showing he had some knowledge of that language. His home
was closed on the Sabbath, until the bell tolled, when it was opened just as
he was seen coming to the church....Many remember his very civil and
courteous demeanor to all classes in the town, as he occasionally had
intercourse with them. He had been seen several times at Henry Fraley's
carpenter shop, and at Bringhurst's blacksmith shop, talking freely and
cordially with both. They had both been in some of his campaigns. His
lady endeared herself to many by her gentleness and kindness. Neither of
them showed pride or austerity. I could illustrate the assertion by several
remembered incidents as proof." ---Watson's Annals
No. 5448 Main Street was built about 1760 by John Bringhurst, who has been
mentioned (previously). It later passed into possession of the Ashmead family.
No. 5450 Main Street, built about 1790, was for a time the residence of
Thomas Armat. It is said of him that during the war of 1812, when calling
upon tenants for rent, if they were unable to pay, he would not only forgo
his claim, but aid them besides. He presented the town with hay scales in
the square opposite, the revenue from which was turned over to certain
beneficial societies. He kept a room in the house known as the "Ministers"
room. He gave the land, and was instrumental in founding St. Luke's
Episcopal Church.
No. 5452 and 5454 are also Ashmead houses. When they were built is not
defiinitely known, but is thought No. 5452 was erected about 1711, by John
Ashmead, who came to Germantown from Cheltenham township in that year,
purchasing a tract of 500 acres, of which a portion still remains in the
family. The front of the house was rebuilt in 1790.
In March, 1742, Count Zinzendorf occupied No. 5454 and on the 14th of
May, he opened a school for young women with twenty-five girls and teachers.
In June of the same year it was transfered to Bethlehem, where it still is
in existence as the Moravian Seminary.
Like many of the properties along the Main Street, the land for these
extended back a considerable distance from the Main Street.
"A large body of Hessians were hutted in Ashmead's field, out the
school lane, near the woods; their huts were constructed of the rails from
fences, set up at an angle of 45* (degrees), resting on a crossbeam centre;
over these laid straw, and above the straw, grass sod---they were close and
warm. Those for the officers had wicker doors, with a glass light, and
interwoven with plaited straw; they had also chimneys made of grass sod.
They no doubt had prepared so to pass the winter, but the battle broke up
their plans. One of the Hessians afterwards became Washington's
coachman."---Watson's Annals.
There is a story in the Ashmead family that during the occupation of the
town by the British, a young British officer was attracted by little "Polly"
Ashmead, and frequently visited the house. One day, he stood before an open
fire warming his back, when the tail of his coat caught fire. Polly saw it,
but as he was a British officer, she said nothing. When he discovered his
coat was burning, and at the same time saw that Polly was laughing, he shook
his finger at her, upbraided her for not telling him, and called her a
"little rebel".
From this family are descended, through Sophia Ashmead, who married, in
1843, Ellis Bartlett, an American merchant, the late Sir Ellis Ashmead
Bartlett, a member of the English Parliament, and his brother, William
Lehman Ashmead Bartlett, the husband of Baroness Burdett-Coutts. They were
both born in America, but were educated in England and became British subjects.
William Penn once preached in the house of Jacob Tellner, which stood where
the Savings Fund Building now stands, on the southwest corner of School Lane
and Main Street. Dr. George Bensell pulled this house down to erect a
handsome residence about 1795. This stood until 1880, when it was torn down
to make way for the present building. The old doorway which stood in the
Bensell house was removed through the efforts of Dr. William R. Dunton and
placed in the house (on the) southeast corner of Main Street and Walnut
Lane. There is a tradition that Jacob Tellner's house was the first stone
house built in Germantown, and that William Penn was present at the raising
of the roof.
The Woman's Christian Association building, fronting on the square, corner
of Mill Street, was at one time occupied by one of the banks from
Philadelphia, when the latter was driven out of Philadelphia by the yellow
fever epidemic. Massive vaults had been constructed in the cellar to which
the money was conveyed. This house was used for five years by the
Episcopalians as a place of worship until the erection of St. Luke's Church.
Market Square Presbyterian Church is the third church building erected on
this site. Originally built by the German Reformed Church in 1733, it was
enlarged in 1762 and a steeple added. President Washington attended here
when living in the Morris house opposite. This building made way for a
larger structure in 1839, which in turn was replaced by the present
structure. Its first bell, cast in 1725, is still preserved in the church.
Its weather vane, made of metal, represented a crowing cock. When the
Paxtang were encamped in the square, they amused themselves firing at the
weathercock on the church. It still bears the marks of these bullets. It
was removed when the present building was erected and is carefully preserved
by Mr.Charles J. Wister. Count Zinzendorf preached his first sermon on
landing in America here, December 31st, 1741, and on June 17th, 1742, his
last on leaving. At the time of the Battle, a battalion of Virginians was
captured and confined in the church building by the British until they were
marched into the city. Here their tall figures, their wounds and
powder-stained faces attracted much attention from the townspeople.
"The Ninth Regiment was in the hottest of the fight, and nearly
one-half the whole regiment was killed and wounded. It drove every portion
of the British Army with which it came in contact before it, and I was told
by one of the officers that in the excitement of the moment, supposing every
part of the American Army had been as successful as themselves, they had no
doubt of reaching Philadelphia, the headquarters of General Howe. When the
retreat of the American army was ordered, the Ninth Regiment was so far in
advance of the rest of the army, that before they could join the main body,
they were surrounded and made prisoners. When surrounded, they had made
more prisoners than the whole number of the regiment. On the morning after
the Battle of Germantown, the prisoners were marched to
Philadelphia."---Joyne's Account, Ninth Virginia Continental Line.
The Mutual Fire Insurance Company, northeast corner School House Lane and
Main Street, occupies the site of the old De La Plaine house. At the time
of the Battle, it was occupied by 'Squire Joseph Ferree, and a number of
weeping women and children found refuge in the cellar while the fight was in
progress.
The Pennsylvania Council of Safety in 1776 ordered that the supply of
salt and saltpetre be removed to Germantown, and presumably stored in Squire
Ferree's cellar, as he was in charge of it. On the 8th of July of that
year, it was "Resolved that Dr. Charles Bensell, Joseph Ferree and Leonard
Stoneburner be appointed to collect all the leaden window weights,
clock-weights and other lead in Germantown and its neighborhood," for which
the liberal price of six pence per pound will be allowed.
When Whitfield visited Germantown, he preached from a little balcony to a
great crowd gathered in the Market Square below.
"On Friday last, the Rev. MR. WHITEFIELD arrived here with his
Friends from NEW YORK, where he preached eight Times;... He has preach'd
here twice every Day, since his arrival, in the Church to great Crowds,
except Tuesday, when he Preach'd at GERMAN TOWN from a Balcony to about 5000
People." ---AMERICAN WEEKLY MERCURY, Nov. 22 to Nov. 29. 1739.
Visitors should see the Shag Rag, the old hand engine belonging to the
Middle Ward Fire Company, which is now carefully preserved by the Insurance
Company in their office. It was imported from England in 1764. Water was
carried to it in leather buckets, of which each member kept two hanging in
his hallway ready for instant service. Three or four men standing on each
side of the engine and working the handles up and down industriously, could
throw a stream of half an inch in diameter a distance of fifty feet or more.
The Germantown Bank, northwest corner Main Street and School House Lane, was
chartered in 1813, and began business in 1814. It was first located in a
house next to the corner, 5504 Main Street, but in 1825, it removed to 5277
Main Street. In 1868, it returned to its present location and later bought
and absorbed 5504, the building in which it first started.
The corner house was known as Bensell's hoouse, having been erected early in
the eighteenth century by Carl Benzelius. The house was occupied for
several years, until about 1806, by the Germantown Library. It was later
altered into a store.
"The Members of the LIBRARY COMPANY OF GERMANTOWN are desired to meet
on Monday, the 6th Day of May, at the House of Daniel Mackenet, to choose
three Directors and a Treasurer, and to make their tenth annual payment."
----Penna. Gazette, April 25th, 1754.
In 1776, Lieutenant George Ball, of the British Navy, a prisoner of war,
was sent to Germantown by the Council of Safety. A letter was sent at the
same time to Dr. Charles Bensell, desiring him to "provide proper lodging
for the Lieutenant."
For a brief period, during the yellow fever epidemic in Philadelphia,
1798, Elizabeth Drinker and her son boarded with the widow Bensell.
Elizabeth Drinker writes in her well-known Journal, August 22nd, 1798:
"Half of her house is taken by other persons, but we are entirely
separated, ye doors between locked up. Aug. 23rd. Two Frenchmen lodge in the
room adjoining us, with a door which opens into our room, which is locked
and ye old lady has ye key. They were jabbering last night, but I could not
understand them. They are nearer than I like; I stopped the keyhole this
morning with paper."
Watson is authority for the statement that Generals Washington, Knox and
Greene slept in 5504, which was next to the corner. This building was
occupied by the Bank of the United States during a portion of 1798.
Elizabeth Drinker records, September 25th:
"Ye United States Bank removed ye contents thereof, from Philada. ye
22nd inst. to Germantown -- to the house lately occupied by Rochardet as a
Coffee house or Tavern, next door to S. Rhoads, escorted by a body of
Light-Horse. It occasioned a great stir in that neighborhood, where there
was great abundance of it before."
One square west of the Main Street is the Germantown Academy (southwest
corner of School House Lane and Greene Street), founded January 1st, 1760.
With the exception of a period during the Revolution, school has been held
here continuously since. It was originally called the Germantown Union
School house. The little buildings were constructed for the masters. The
school started with 131 pupils -- 61 in the English and 70 in the German
department.
The following is an extract from an advertisement of the school in the
PENNSYLVANIA GAZETTE, March 5th, 1761:
"The School House consists of 80 Feet in Front, and 40 Feet in Depth,
two Stories in Height, with six commodious Rooms for the Use of the several
Schools. To which are added as Wings, two convenient Dwelling-houses, with
a lot of Ground to each, for the Residence of the Masters and their
Boarders. The advantages of the School, with respect to Situation, must, if
duly considered, contribute not a little to its Promotion and Encouragement.
The House is built on a fine airy Hill, a little removed from the Public or
Main street. The Air is known, from long Experience, to be pure and
healthy; often recommended, by the best Physicians, to Invalids; and indeed
the Place, without Exaggeration, may be justly termed the Montpelier of
Pennsylvania. The Opportuities and Examples of Vice and Immorality, which
ever prevail in large Cities, here will seldom present themselves, to decoy
the youthful Mind from its natural Inclination of Virtue. Its Retirement,
for want of Objects to divert the Attention will fix the Mind to Application
and Study. Its small Distance from the City of Philadelphia will enable the
Citizen, in some Measure, to superintend both the Health and Education of
his Child."
After the Battle, the building was used as a hospital for the wounded,
and several British soldiers are buried in the yard at the rear. The school
was chartered by the State in 1786 as the Public school at Germantown.
The bell in the belfry has a romantic history. It was brought to
Philadelphia in 1774 in the tea ship Polly, which was not allowed to land by
the indignant citizens of Philadelphia. The cargo, including the bell, was
carried back to England, where it remained until the war was over, when it
was again brought over and put in place. A part of the weather vane is a
crown representing the royal insignia of England, which has never been
disturbed. In the Academy's possession are the telescope used by Washington
at the time of the Battle and other interesting relics. The house on School
House Lane opposite the Academy was bought in 1810. The Gymnasium along
Greene Street is a modern building. The public is admitted to the school.
In 1793, when, on account of the yellow fever in Philadelphia, it seemed
as if Congress would meet in Germantown, the use of the Academy was
tendered, November 6th, to Washington as a meeting place, but owing to the
abatement of the disease, Congress assembled in Philadelphia December 2d.
In 1798, when yellow fever again drove the citizens of Philadelphia to
the suburbs and country, the Academy building was occupied by the Banks of
North America and of Pennsylvanis. Elizabeth Drinker, who was then in
Germantown, writes in her journal:
"September 4 (1798). The Bank of Pennsylvania was this afternoon
removed from Philadelphia, where it has lately been robbed of a considerable
amount, to the school house in this town, escorted by McPherson's Blues."
"September 5. Germantown is like a beehive --the people swarm. About
two o'clock, four wagons with the cash, &c., from the Bank of North America
arrived here, guarded by the Light-horse men. They are also deposited in
the same school house where the contents of ye other was yesterday lodged.
This draws great numbers to this place. Fifteen or twenty people are
guarding ye Banks."
No 5506 Main Street, now modernized with a Mansard roof, was occupied during
one of the yellow fever visitations by the officers of the State government,
Governor Mifflin and Alexander J. Dallas, Secretary of the Commonwealth,
having their offices here. When the building next south was torn down to
make way for the addition to the Germantown Bank, a doorway was disclosed,
indicating that there was a connection between the two buildings.
Built in the wall of the rear building of this house is the head of an
Indian made of some dark stone. It may be seen from the alleyway just north
of the next house. Its origin and history are unknown, although there is a
tradition that it was unearthed when the foundations of the house were dug.
Nos. 5516-5518-5520 Main Street, in Revolutionary times was the King of
Prussia Tavern. Its sign, which is still preserved, is said to have shown
King Frederick on horseback and to have been painted by Gilbert Stuart while
he was a temporary resident of Germantown. It was later painted over. In
the rear there formerly stood a large barn which was used as a slaughter
house by the British at the time of the Battle. The first stage coach with
an awning was run from the King of Prussia to the George Inn, Second and
Arch Streets, three times a week. About 1834, its use as a tavern ceased.
The doorway on the second floor, at the south end, which has been closed up,
shows where at one time it had been connected with the next house below.
"Andrew Weckeser begs leave to inform the Publick,
"That he has opened a House of entertainment in Germantown, at the
Sign of the King-of-Prussia, near John Jones's, Esq.: where all Gentlemen,
Ladies, Travellers, &c. may depend on the best usage. Their favors will be
gratefully acknowledged by their humble Servant. ANDREW WECKESER."
PENNSYLVANIA GAZETTE, Dec. 15th, 1757.
Standing back from the street next above the King of Prussia is an old
hipped roof building, occupied at one time by Christian Lehman, who came to
America with his father in 1731, with a passport written with gold ink on
parchment. Christian Lehman was an importer of tulip and hyacinth bulbs,
and is said to have imported the first English walnuts brought to this
country. One tree of this variety still stands on the place. In this
connection the following advertisement appeared in the PENNSYLVANIA GAZETTE,
August 4, 1763.
"To be sold during the latter Part of this Summer only, an Assortment
of English double Hyacinth Roots, of a variety of Colours, as well as sundry
other Sorts of Flower Roots, of various Prices, by CHRISTIAN LEHMAN, in
Germantown."
"N.B. He also keeps constantly for Sale, some of the best English
Walnut Trees, as well as other Fruit and Flowering Trees, of a Size fit to
plant out, etc., etc., etc."
The First Presbyterian Church, Chelton Avenue west of Main Street, stands
where at one time was a famous orchard, and the steeple is directly over a
spring. In digging the foundation, it was necessary to drive piles on which
the foundations were constructed. The orchard referred to, was that of a
German named Kurtz, whose house stood on the west of the Main Street where
Chelton Avenue has been opened through. Kurtz was a great horticulturalist
and botanist and his gardens contained many rare specimens. He was a friend
of Matthias Kin, an eccentric man who was employed by German
horticulturalists to collect seeds and plants for them. He spent most of
the time exploring the wilds of North America, and it was to him that Kurtz
was indebted for many of his specimens.
The First Presbyterian Church was formally located where is now the Young
Men's Christian Association Building, and the first meetings of the body
were, before the erection of a church building, held in the Blair house,
southeast corner of Main Street and Walnut Lane.
Vernon Park, on the West side of Main Street just above Chelton Avenue, now
includes the old Wister mansion and some adjoining properties. Most of this
land formerly belonged to Melchoir Meng, whose house stood along the main
street, immediately adjoining what is now No. 5708 Main Street. Melchoir
Meng shared with his neighbor Kurtz, a great love for trees and plants, and
John Wister, who bought property and lived here for many years, preserved
and added to the collection. Some of these rare specimens are still
standing, particularly noticeable being several great holly trees. Melchoir
Meng was one of the founders of the Germantown Academy, and at the Battle,
his house was occupied by the wounded soldiers. His three daughters were
alone in the house at the time, and the British officers assured them if
they would go up stairs and stay there, no harm would befall them. The house
had been selected as a hospital on account of the numerous barrels of
vinegar stored in the cellar, this being used to stanch the flow of blood.
They saw the stricken Colonel Bird brought in and laid upon the porch, and
soon the house was filled with wounded men.
Melchoir Meng's house was taken down when the city bought the property a
few years ago.
Vernon Mansion was erected by John Matthews, who, a few years later, sold
it to John Wister, who lived here until his death. His son, John Wister,
was a member of Congress and occupied Vernon until his death in 1883. The
property now belongs to the city, and the mansion is occupied by the
Germantown branch of the Free Library of Philadelphia.
No. 5845 Main Street was standing at the time of the Battle. There is a
tradition that at one time a mounted British soldier rode up to the door and
demanded something. On being refused, he tried to urge his horse into the
doorway, which was then guarded by a Dutch or double door.
The tollgate for the turnpike stood in the street just below this house
and opposite Rittenhouse Street.
The Young Men's Christian Association stands where for many years was the
First Presbyterian Church. It was organized in 1809 as the "English Church"
of Germantown. In 1811, the site was chosen, and in July, 1812, the
building was dedicated. The church remained here until 1870, when it was
removed to Chelton Avenue, the building after that date being occupied by
the Young Men's Christian Association.
The First Methodist Church of Germantown was, until within a few years,
located on East Haines' Street, a square or more east of the main street.
The church was organized in 1796. There had been meetings of this body for
some time previous to this date held, among other places, in the Academy
Building.
The first meeting house was on the south side of East Haines Street
(formerly Pickius Lane, later Methodist Lane, or Meeting House Lane), and
was erected in 1804. In 1812, a large lot further out Haines Street was
bought. On this lot a meetinghouse was built in 1823. This church building
was later sold to the city and is now used as a public school.
On the south side of Haines Street, the first house east of Chew Street
(about three-fourths of a mile east of Main Street), still stands a farm
house that belonged to Christopher Ludwig. In 1777 he was appointed Baker
General to the American army. He was an ardent patriot, possessed
considerable influence, and is said to have been the original of Harvey
Birch in Cooper's novel "The Spy." He was respected by Washington, and the
latter, in 1785, gave him a certificate of good conduct, of which
Christopher Ludwig was very proud and which he had framed and hung in his
parlor. He was born in Germany in 1720. He had been a soldier in the
Austrian and Prussian armies. He was a baker by trade and amassed a fortune
in his business, an important part of which was making gingerbread. At his
death, he left much to charities. His grave is in St. Michael's Lutheran
yard and consists of a granite top-stone on granite pillars, with a long
inscription giving an account of the principal events of his life. He died
in 1801.
For further details see "Life of Christopher Ludwig," by Dr. Benjamin Rush.
The Town Hall during the war of the Rebellion was used as a hospital.
Numerous frame wards were also constructed at the side and rear, so that
eventually the hospital accommodated 630 beds. The hospital was organized
July, 1862. It was called the Cuyler Hospital, in honor of John M. Cuyler,
M.D., Medical Director, U.S.A.
No. 5938 Main Street is the Engle house, built by Benjamin Engle in 1758
and remains in the possession of this family to this day. The Engles were
tanners in early days, and the tannery stood in the rear until modern times.
The tradition is that Elizabeth Engle, standing in the doorway after the
Battle, saw the wounded General Agnew carried by on a door. After the
Battle, the British soldiers were seen gathering up the American muskets and
breaking them one by one over a cubical quartz stone which stood for many
years at the gateway, alongside the house to keep the wagon wheels from
hitting the post. A good Engle horse was taken from the stable and a poor
old English hack substituted.
The house at the southeast corner of Main Street and High Street is known as
the Morris-Littell house. Mrs. Ann Willing Morris lived here from 1812
until her death, in 1832. Of her two daughters who occupied the house, one
was Margaret H. Morris, the first woman elected a member of the Academy of
Natural Sciences. She was a noted naturalist, and it is said that to her
belongs the credit of discovering the habits of the seventeen - year
locusts, enabling her to predict their reappearance. It was on these
grounds that the investigations were made.
This house, a portion of it, was the home at one time of Dr. Christopher
Witt, further mention of whom will be found in succeeding paragraphs.
No. 25 High Street, just in the rear of the Methodist Church, was built
about 1796 by Daniel Pastorius, a great grandson of Francis Daniel
Pastorius. It then stood on the Main Street, next to the Morris-Littell
house, with only a carriage drive separating them. When High Street was
opened, it was moved some fifty feet northward, and a few years ago it was
moved once more to its present location.
Some thirty years ago, Dr. Dunton tore down the old Pastorius house, which
formerly stood between his house and No. 6019 Main Street, and used the
stone in building the rear wing of this house.
Dr. Dunton has carved over his doorway the Latin motto, "Procul este
profani", which Whittier says was carved over Pastorius' door.
"Then through the vine-draped door whose legend read,
'Procul este profani' Anna led
To where their child upon his little bed
"Looked up and smiled. 'Dear heart', she said, 'if we
Must bearers of a heavy burden be,
"Our boy, God willing, yet the day shall see
" 'When from the galley to the farthest seat
Slave and slave-owner shall no longer meet,
But all sit equal at the Master's feet. "
--From Whittier's Pennsylvania Pilgrim.
In the rear, almost adjoining the church, is an old building, formerly a
Pastorius farm house. The doorway, which is a particularly handsome one,
was formerly in one of the Bensell houses on the Main Street above School
Lane, torn down to make way for the Germantown Bank.
St. Michael's Episcopal Church, on the south side of High street, two
squares east of Main Street, occupies the site of the old Warner burying
ground. Its walls may be traced by the stone foundation still showing
through the sod. In addition to the graves of the two Doctor Warners, for
whom substantial headstones are still standing, there are numerous other
mounds without stones. Here is also buried, in a now unmarked grave, Dr.
Christopher Witt (or Dewit, as it is sometimes spelled), who died in 1765,
aged ninety years.
"Last week died at Germantown Dr. Christopher Dewit; a gentleman long
and well known throughout this and the neighboring Provinces, for his great
Services and Abilities in the Profession of a Physician." - Pennsylvania
Gazette, February 7, 1765.
It is said that some of the dead from the Battle, English as well as
Americans, are buried here, and for many years before the church was built,
the graveyard and the surrounding ground was called "Spook Hill."
No. 6019 Main Street was formerly the Green Tree Tavern. It was built in
1748. The letters "D.S.P." in the date stone stand for Daniel and Sarah
Pastorius. The house was a public one kept by Daniel Pastorius until his
death in 1754.
There is a well-founded tradition that during the Battle, the attacking
Americans, on the east side of the Main Street, under General Wayne,
penetrated this far towards the centre of the town. It is referred to in
the chronicles of the time as the "Widow Mackinnett's Tavern," and it was a
famous resort for driving and sleighing parties from the city. Later it was
called the "Hornet's Nest", from an immense hornets' nest that was kept here
as a curiosity. The tavern was the resting place of many curiosities of the
town and vicinity. In 1825, when Lafayette was invited to visit Germantown,
the intention was to entertain him at dinner at this inn. The evening
before the day he was expected, it was concluded that the tavern would not
accommodate the party, so a deputation visited the Chew House, where
arrangements were made for the dinner, over which Miss Ann Chew, then a
young lady of sixteen, presided.
Nos. 6021 and 6023 Main Street are Warner houses. The Warners were early
identified with the Pietist hermits of the Wissahickon, and particularly
with Dr. Christopher Witt, the survivor of this remarkable body. Watson is
authority for the statement that Dr. Witt's interest in the Warners was
first aroused by their giving him a hat to replace his, which had blown
away. Be this as it may, the relations were very close between the old
doctor and the family, and when the former died he left his big house to
Christian Warner.
Dr. Witt was born in England in 1675 and came to Pennsylvania in 1704.
He was one of the most remarkable men who lived in Germantown. He was a
physician, botanist, scholar, musician, astronomer and lover of nature,
originally one of the hermits of the Wissahickon, a friend of John Bartram,
the botanist, and of other noted men.
An oil portrait of Johannes Kelpius, the Hermit of the Wissahickon,
painted by Dr. Christopher Witt, is believed to be the first oil portrait
painted in America, 1705. It is in the possession of the Pennsylvania
Historical Society.
"Dr. Witt was a skilled botanist, and upon his removal to Germantown,
after the death of Kelpius, he started a large garden for his own study, and
amusement, and to him probably is due the honor of starting the first
botanical garden in America. This was about twenty years prior to Bartram's
purchase on the Schuylkill for a like purpose." - The German Pietists of
Pennsylvania, p. 406.
It was no doubt through Dr. Witt's influence that two of the Warners,
father and son, became physicians. The latter died during the yellow fever
epidemic of 1793. Their graves are referred to in a preceding paragraph.
A portion of "Wyck", southwest corner of Walnut Lane and Main Street, is
thought to be the oldest house still standing in Germantown. The present
building was originally two houses with a driveway between them. Its halls
were used as a hospital and operating room after the Battle and blood stains
still remain upon its floors. Reuben Haines, who inherited the property,
was a prominent man of his day. He greatly aided in the building of the
turnpike from Chestnut Hill to the city, and was active in other ways. When
the Marquis of Lafayette visited Germantown, July 20, 1825, he was
entertained at "Wyck". Lafayette and his suite had previously visited the
Chew House, then the Mount Airy College. On their return they stopped at
"Wyck", where a reception was tendered him. He was addressed by Charles
Pierce, Esq., and John F. Watson, the analist, who presented him with a "box
of great curiosity and value". During the reception Lafayette was seated in
a chair that had belonged to Benjamin Franklin and which is still in
possession of the family. From "Wyck", Lafayette went to the Academy and
from there returned to the city.
Among the trees on the lawn of "Wyck" is a Spanish chestnut, a seedling
from a tree General Washington planted for Judge Peters at Belmont.
In the rear of "Wyck" was the large old-fashioned barn erected in 1796
which, in 1890, was altered into a beautiful and comfortable dwelling
standing on Walnut Lane.
No. 6043 Main Street, southeast corner of Main Street and Walnut Lane, is a
house of very considerable historic interest. The property was bought in
1775 by Dr. William Shippen as a summer home. Tradition has it that this
was the first three-story house built in Germantown. It was the centre of a
fierce skirmish during the Battle, and its plaster and woodwork for many
years bore the marks of bullets, and the print in blood of a man's foot
remained on one of the floors for some time. The house was also occupied by
Dr. Shippen's son-in-law, the Reverend Samuel Blair, who was instrumental in
establishing in Germantown the First Presbyterian Church. Services were at
one time held in this house. Dr. Blair was elected President of Princeton
College, but voluntarily made way for the famous Dr. Witherspoon. He was
also a chaplain in the American army.
Later the Pennsylvania Manual Labor School was located here under the
charge of Dr. George Junkin, afterward President of Washington and Lee
University. One of his daughters married the famous Confederate General
"Stonewall" Jackson. In 1832 Dr. Junkin removed to Easton to assume the
duties of President of Lafayette College. The property in 1851 was owned by
Charlotte Cushman, the famous actress. It was she who opened the East
Walnut Lane, which she called Chestnut Street. The beautiful doorway was
formerly that of a house which belonged to Dr. Bensell, at the corner of
Main Street and School House Lane, now occupied by the Savings Fund.
The house on the northeast corner of Main and East Walnut Lane was built in
1806 by the Rev. Samuel Blair, for his son, Samuel Blair, Jr.
The Mennonite Meeting House is on the Main Street, above Herman Street. As
has been stated elsewhere, the little band of first settlers was composed of
Friends and Mennonites. Here in 1708 the latter built a little log meeting
house, the first to be erected in America, succeeded in 1770 by the present
building. From behind a wall at this point a party of citizens fired upon
the British troops as they marched up the Main Street during the Battle and
mortally wounded Brigadier General Agnew, riding at the head. William
Rittenhouse, famous as being the first paper maker in the colonies, was the
first pastor of the congregation.
No 6205 Main Street was built by Dirck Keyser, who came from Amsterdam with
his son, Peter Dirck Keyser, in 1688. There is a tradition that his was the
first two-story house erected in Germantown. The initials "D.K. 1738," are
cut in the stones on the front of the house, alongside of one of the windows.
Dirck Keyser was connected with the Mennonite Church. In Amsterdam he
had been a silk merchant, and after he arrived here he wore a silk coat,
which caused his neighbors some disgust. Some of the brethern calling to
talk over his worldliness, found him in his garden. As he advanced to meet
them, he wiped his hands on his coat. They concluded, on seeing this, that
he did not value it unduly and so said nothing of the object of their visit.
The Washington Tavern, No 6239 Main Street, is an old building, and was
known by this name as early as 1793. It is the type of a large number of
taverns which in the early days lined the Main Street of Germantown. The
Buck, Sadler's Arms, Green Tree, Indian King, Indian Queen, Crown and
Cushion, Roebuck, Buttonwood, Fountain, Black Horse, White Horse, Lamb,
White Lamb, Treaty Elm, and King of Prussia are some of the names of taverns
that have now passed away. In the early times, the capacious yard of the
Washington Tavern could not accommodate all the teams putting up there for
the night, and there would be an overflow row of wagons along the Main Street.
No. 6306 Main Street, the Johnson house, stood in the thickest of the fight
at the time of the Battle. John Johnson, the occupant at this time, alarmed
by the noise, went to his door to look out. A British officer riding by
advised the family to seek a place of safety. It was early in the morning
and the maids had just brought in the morning's milk from the barn. They
hastily left it and quickly sought refuge in the cellar. After the Battle,
the British soldiers swarmed through the house, drank the milk and cleared
the kitchen of everything eatable.
A rifle ball passed through the house and the hole through the parlor
door is still visible. A cannon ball knocked a chip out of the north corner
of the house about two feet above the fence. The house is still in
possession of the Johnson family.
The house was one of the largest and most substantial in Germantown when
it was built, and on this account its building gave some concern to members
of the Society of Friends, of which body the Johnsons were also members.
No. 6316 Main Street, now occupied by Mr. Ellwood Johnson, was formerly a
Keyser property and back of it is still standing a cedar fence that was
riddled with bullets at the Battle. The engagement back of this and the
adjoining houses was particularly severe. The old fence, its bullet holes
worn much larger by the winds and storms of a century and more, is now
protected by another fence. During the engagement a bullet passed clear
through the barn, striking an officer, who was carried to the rear of the
tannery, where he died.
Separating this property from the Johnsons', adjoining, is a stone wall
which was used as a breastwork, and this was one of the many obstacles that
hampered the advance of the American army.
The Keysers were tanners and a portion of the tannery buildings still
remains. There is also a millstone used for grinding bark which weighs
nearly a ton, and which Nathan Keyser is said to have been able to lift at
one time. Honey Run, a considerable little stream, used to flow across the
garden in the rear.
No. 6307 Main street was built in 1760 by Jacob Knorr. It stood in the
thick of the fight at the Battle.
The fourth building above Washington Lane, on the east side adjoining the
burying ground, is the Concord School House, built in 1775 for the upper
residents of Germantown, who found the Academy on School Lane too far away.
It was used as a school for many years and is at present occupied by the
Charter Oak Library. Query: Why was it called Concord? Was it because the
first German immigrants had come over in the ship Concord, or was it because
its foundations were laid at the time when the shot that was heard around
the world was being fired at Concord, Mass.?
The Upper Burying Ground of Germantown, sometimes called Ax's burying
ground, from John Frederick Ax, who had charge of it from 1724 to 1756, is
on the east side of Main street, above the Concord school. Here are buried
many of the early settlers of Germantown and their descendants. The oldest
known grave is that of Cornelius Tyson, who died in 1716. Judge Pennypacker
takes this to be the oldest existing tombstone to the memory of a Dutchman
or German in Pennsylvania. Just inside the gateway are the graves of the
Lippard family, ancestors of George Lippard, a writer of some considerable
activity. In the east corner of the yard are the graves of several American
soldiers killed at the Battle, including Lieutenant Colonel Henry Irwin, of
a North Carolina regiment; Captain Turner, of North Carolina , and Adjutant
Lucas. Over their neglected and almost unknown graves the annalist Watson
erected a plain marble stone.
The little stone built into the wall at the right of the gateway gives
the various dates when the wall was built and repaired.
For a detailed account, including list of burials, see an article by
Peter D. Keyser, in the "Pennsylvania Magazine of History," Vol. VIII, No.4,
and Vol. IX, No.1.
The vacant lot adjoining the Upper Burial Ground is all that remains of
Pomona, once a handsome estate extending along the Main Steet to Duval
Street and as far back as Morton street. After the Revolution, Pomona was
the home of Colonel Thomas Forrest, an artillery officer from Germantown,
later a member of the XVI and XVII Congresses.
The Ship House, No. 6338 Main Street, is so called from the plaster
representation of a ship showing on its south gable. In early times, it was
a hotel with a sign showing William Penn's treaty with the Indians under the
Shackamaxon Elm. The tradition is that the front part was built about 1760.
In the rear was a large building, the first public hall in Germantown. The
"Bulldog," one of the first three hand fire engines, was kept here. It is
now in possession of the Bockius family.
No. 6347 Main Street was the residence for many years of Rev. John Rodney,
who was the rector of St. Luke's Episcopal Church from 1825 to 1867, and
rector emeritus until his death in 1886. The upper portion of the house was
built by John Keyser and at the time of the Battle, was occupied by him and
his family. As the house was high up above the street, the family, from
their refuge in the cellar, were able, by placing an apple under the outside
cellar door, to witness the Battle in the opposite field. There is a
tradition that a soldier officer fell near the cellar door, and the Keysers,
at his burial, saved the silver shoe buckles which he wore. Years after,
one of his descendants, searching for information as to his ancestor, was
directed to the Keysers. It then developed that the officer they had helped
bury was the person searched for, and the buckles were given to the rightful
owner.
The Chew House occupies the square bounded by the Main Street, Johnson and
Morton Street and Cliveden Avenue. It was the scene of the most important
incident connected with the Battle. Indeed, the house and grounds have for
a century and a quarter been pointed out as the Germantown Battle Ground.
The place is called "CLIVEDEN". The mansion was built about 1760 by Benjamin
Chew, who at different time was Attorney-General of the Province, a member
of the Provincial Council and later, Chief Justice.
Cliveden is two and one-half stories high and built of solid and heavy
masonry. Back of it are two wings used for servants' quarters and kitchen
and laundry; one wing is semi-detached and the othere entirely so. Still
further in the rear is the old stable, the whole forming a natural and
admirable fortification, almost impregnable against any artillery which in
that day could be brought against it. Along the front of the lawn there
was, as there is today, a low terrace wall, and leading up to the house was
a lane of good-sized cherry trees. Opposite was an open field stretching
away to the banks of Paper Mill Run. The important part played by
"Cliveden" in turning the fortunes of the day in the Battle of Germantown
has been explained in another chapter.
When Colonel Musgrave with his soldiers entered the house he ordered all
the shutters on the first floor closed; a few men were placed at each window
and the doors, with orders to bayonet anyone trying to enter. Most of the
men then ascended to the second floor. He instructed them how to cover
themselves and at the same time, direct their fire out of the windows,
adding that their only safety was in the defense of the house, that the
situation was by no means a bad one, as there had been instances of only a
few men defending a house against supior numbers; that he had no doubt of
their being supported and delivered by their friends, but in any event they
must sell themselves as dearly as possible. Some of the men climbed out of
the back windows on to the roof and lying flat, fired over the front, and
all disposed themselves to make a vigorous defense.
At the very first shot of the Continental cannon, the front doors were
burst open and some of the men were wounded with pieces of splintered stone.
Captain Haines, a brave and intelligent officer commanding on the ground
floor, ordered tables and chairs and everything available in the way of
furniture, piled against the doors.
The Continental soldiers advanced under cover of the cherry trees in the
lane and crouched behind the trees and marble statues as they fired at the
windows above. One observer says the firing from the house was tremendous.
The balls seemed to come in showers. Several efforts were made to set fire
to the house, and Major White, of Sullivan's staff, was killed in making the
attempt. A bundle of straw was piled against the cellar window, but it
failed to ignite the woodwork.
All efforts so bravely put forth by the Americans were unavailing. The
house resisted every attack and Colonel Musgrave maintained his position
until relieved by reinforcements. It is said the only man he had killed was
in the northwest chamber on the second floor. No less than forty-six
officers and men were killed in Maxwell's atacking brigade.
It was a sorry looking house that remained. The walls and ceilings were
blackened with smoke and the floor stained with blood. In the front hall
many holes are to be seen filled with plaster, plainly showing because not
quite of the same color as the original. Not alone in the hall, but
everywhere, the plaster had been broken by cannon and rifle balls, the
woodwork was splintered and the stonework shattered, the marble statues were
knocked over, broken and disfigured. One six-pound cannon bll had entered
the front window, passed through four partitions and had gone out the back.
Five carpenters, as well as other mechanics, were employed all the next
winter putting it in order. The third story suffered more than the second,
and the second more than the first. The ceiling of the second story was,
and is, literally peppered with the bullets from the muskets of those who
crept up as close as they could and fired into the second-story windows.
Around the base of the column in the hall are still to be seen marks, which
are supposed to have been made by the butts of muskets stacked up around them.
The Chew family was away from home at the time of the Battle, and the
house, but partly furnished, had been left in the care of the gardener and
probably other servants. There was among them a pretty dairy maid whom the
garener much admired. The dairy maid was, rather pleased than otherwise,
when the red coats took possession of the house and was not inclined to
resent their tender familiarities. Seeing this, the gardener remonstrated
with her, but without effect, and a "tiff" soon resulted. When the firing
became heavy, he urged her in vain to go to the cellar, and it was not until
a cannon ball went through the house, making a great commotion, that the
gardener, thinking that further argument unnecessary, gave her a push which
sent her headlong to the bottom of the stairs. He then turned the lock and
left her in the cellar. Where he hid is not known, but they both came
through the attack in safety.
The best position to view the house is from the gateway on Johnson
Street. The house and grounds are not open to the public, but Mrs. Chew has
not heretofore objected to amateur photographers and sightseers, who have a
proper regard for the property, entering the grounds for a nearer view of
the house.
When Johnson Street was opened, the graves of a number of soldiers were
discovered who had been buried in the grounds. Miss Ann Chew had the
remains removed, and they now rest under the clump of shrubbery close to the
fence at the corner of Johnson and Morton Street.
Upsala, on the west side of Main Street, almost opposite the Chew House, is
thought to be one of the finest examples of the so-called "Colonial"
architecture in this part of the country. The house was erected in 1798 by
John Johnson, ancestor of the present occupants. It was three years in
building. The cannon trained on the Chew Mansion, nearly opposite, were
first placed where now is the front lawn of this house. For many years
Upsala has been famous for its rare and beautiful trees.
The little old house at the northwest corner of Main and Upsal Streets was
standing at the time of the Battle. It was for a long time the home of a
certain Englishman, John Bardsley, a painter by trade, who some thirty years
ago was sent to England through the influence of Germantown's then
Councilman, William F. Smith, to bring over a lot of English sparrows to
destroy the caterpillars, then infesting the trees of the city. It is
believed that this was the first introduction of the sparrow on any given
scale. The house has since been called Sparrow Jack's House.
The Billmyer house stands at the northeast corner of Main and Upsal Streets.
It was erected about 1727, and formerly was one house. At the time of the
Battle, it was owned and occupied by the widow Deshler and her family. It
was at this house that Washington paused in his march down the Main Street
at the time of the Battle, having discovered that the Chew mansion was
occupied by the British. At that time there was no house between this and
the Chew house. The tradition is that Washington stood on a horse block,
telescope in hand, trying in vain to penetrate the smoke and fog and
discover the force of the enemy entrenched in the Chew mansion. The stone
cap of the horse block on which he stood is still preserved, and the
telescope, is now in possession of the Germantown Academy.
The house later suffered greatly at the hands of the British soldiers
who were quartered here. Its woodwork yet bears the marks of bullets and of
attempts made by the soldiers to set it on fire. About 1788, it was bought
by Michael Billmyer, a celebrated German printer, who here carried on his
trade. The upper portion is still in possession of his family. Note the
tablet erected by the Site and Relic Society.
The odd building adjoining the Meeting House, No.6611 Main Street, was used
as the parsonage, and parts of it are said to be two hundred years old.
Near it, in the Main Street, at the Battle of Germantown, General Nash was
mortally wounded and Major Witherspoon was killed by the same cannon ball.
Major Witherspoon was buried in the yard adjoining. In later years, his
brother and sister came on from Princeton to secure his remains, but they
were in such a condition that the attempts were abandoned and the body was
again buried in the graveyard of the Lutheran Church, a short distance above.
The church of the Brethern, or Dunkards, 6613 Main Street, above Sharpnack
street, is the mother congregation of this sect in America. The Dunkards
came to this country in 1719 and were gathered into a church organization in
1723 by Peter Becker, who was their first elder and pastor. They worshipped
for many years in the homes of their members until about 1760, when they
occupied a log building which stood in front of the meeting house. The
front portion of the present building was erected in 1770 and the rear
portion in 1897.
In the Meeting House, a tablet has been erected to the memory of
Christoher Sauer by Charles G. Sower, as follows:
In Memory of
Christopher Sauer
Bishop of
Church of the Brethern
Born 1721 Died 1784
Baptized 1737 Deacon 1747
Minister 1748 Bishop 1753
Published the Holy Bible
Second Edition 1763 Third Edition 1776
_________________________
Only son of
Christopher Sauer
Born 1693 in Laasphe, Germany
Came to America in 1724
Commenced Publishing in Germantown 1738
Published First Am Quarto Edition of the Holy Bible
1743
Died in Germantown 1758.
In the Graveyard are the graves of Alexander Mack, the founder of the
Dunkard sect, who came to America in 1729, and of Harriet Livermore, the
Pilgrim Stranger who is alluded to in Whittier's "Snow Bound", an eccentric
religious enthusiast, the daughter of a Senator from New Hampshire. Her
last days were spent in poverty in Philadelphia and as she was about to be
buried in a pauper's grave, a member of the Dunkard Church took her body and
had it interred here.
At the Battle of Germantown, this meeting house was a witness of the
fighting. In the loft, Christopher Sauer had stored some sheets of the
third edition of the Sauer Bible. These were taken by the British
cavalrymen who were encamped about and used as litter for their horses.
Afterwards, Sauer gathered as many as he could find together and had enough
sheets to make complete Bibles for each of his children. Some of the paper
is also said to have been used as wadding for the muskets of the combatants.
The old house, No. 6669 Main Street belongs to the Lutheran Church, just
above, and was used for many years as a home for the sexton. It is very
old, but the date of its erection is not known.
St Michael's Lutheran Church is at the southeast corner of Main and
Phil-ellena streets. It was founded about 1737. In 1742, the Rev. Henry
Melchior Muhlenberg took charge of the two churches, one in Philadelphia,
and the other in Germantown. In 1746, the work of considerably enlarging
the church was begun. Pews were placed in it in 1750. In 1752, a parsonage
was bought. The present building is the third successive one that has
occupied the site. At the Battle, the parsonage was seized by the British
and the organ was destroyed, the soldiers running along the streets blowing
on the pipes.
In the graveyard are the remains of Christopher Ludwig, "Baker General"
to the American army; also of Major Witherspoon, son of Rev. John
Witherspoon, president of Princeton College, killed in the Battle, as well
as those of many of the early settlers of the town.
At No. 6749 Main Street, George Hesser, at the time of the Battle, had just
completed the cellar for his new house. Such a good-sized excavation proved
too great a temptation for those who were burying the dead, and it was used
for this purpose. Hesser was consequently obliged to abandon this site, and
started again farther down the road. The old cellar is supposed to be about
where the gateway enters on the north. The barn bears the date 1777, and
was probably completed before the house. The property is now in possession
of the Bayard family.
An account of life in Germantown, with some interesting local details
during the yellow fever epidemic of 1793, will be found in Elizabeth
Drinker's Journal. Henry Drinker, his wife Elizabeth, and a portion of
their family, lodged with George Heaser from July 8th to November 16th of
that year.
At 6843 Main Street is the Paul house, occupied at the time of the battle by
the Gorgas family. The door jams contain bullet marks and there are other
evidence and traces of damage. To save their cows, the family penned them
up in the kitchen. In the front yard, nearly opposite the window, at the
left of the font door, stood a big linden tree in which four cannon blls
found lodgement. During the century after the battle, the heart having
rotted away, allowed the balls to fall to the ground inside the hollow
trunk. One morning Miss Paul was digging away at the root of the stump to
plant some flowers, when out rolled the balls.
Back in the field in the angle formed by the Reading Railroad and Gorgas
Lane and about equidistant from each, is the old Unruh homestead. The house
is still roofed with earthen tiles under the later covering of tin. After
the Battle, wounded soldiers were quartered here. It is not known when the
old house was built. The Unruhs came from Germany.
On the opposite side of the railroad is another old homestead, with a
pond near the house and barn. The tradition is that the retreating soldiers
threw their muskets into the water to save them from being captured. The
farm is now occupied by a Mr. Wertz.
Occupying the site of the Lutheran Theological seminary, on the east side of
Main Street, at Allen's Lane, was Mount Airy, the summer residence of Chief
Justice William Allen. Later the house was used as a boarding school. At the
time of Lafayette's visit in 1825, it was conducted by Benjamin C. Constant.
In 1826, a Colonel Rumford was associated with him, and the institution was
called "The American Classical and Military Institute". Many well-known
persons received their education here, including Generals Beauregard and
Meade, and the latter's brother. The building was demolished about 1846.
Mount Airy is now the name applied to this section of the Twenty-second Ward.
The Gowen House, southeast corner Main Street and Gowen Avenue, came into
the Gowen family through the maternal line. Joseph Miller was born at Mount
Airy, January 26th, 1757. In 1792, he built the house in which his daughter
was born, who married James Gowen. Their son, Franklin B. Gowen, was born
here. It was the home of Franklin E. Gowen for some years, then of his
brother, James E. Gowen, who lived here until his death.
Log house, southeast corner Main Street and Mermaid Lane, is said to have
been built in 1743 by Christopher Yeakle, who continued to occupy it until
nearly the time of the Revolution, when he sold it and removed to the top of
Chestnut Hill. It is the last building of the kind remaining in Germantown.
EXCURSION, EAST SIDE OF GERMANTOWN
After visiting Stenton(see #4), return to the Main Street. Just above Wayne
Junction, turn to the right out Stenton Avenue to East Logan Street
(formerly Fisher's Lane). Then east along Fisher's Lane, and at the bottom
of the hill where the road crosses what used to be the Wingohocking Creek,
is a little whitewashed stone dwelling said to have been used for the
storing of powder and arms during the Revolution and also for the
manufacture of gunpowder.
The mills are the Wakefield Mills, established at an early date by
William Logan Fisher. His father, Thomas Fisher, in 1771 married Sarah,
daughter of William Logan and grand-daughter of James Logan, of Stenton. To
the left, a short distance beyond, is "Wakefield", the home of Thomas and
Sarah Fisher, built about 1795, still in possession of their descendants.
After passing Wakefield, the Old York Road is soon reached. Turning up
this road, the Jewish Hospital is passed on the right. Just beyond the
tollgate, on the left, with a high wall along the road and a double
balconied house with many outbuildings, was the home of Pierce Butler, a
member of the Constitutional Convention and a Senator from South Carolina.
He bought the property in 1812. He died in Philadelphia in 1822.
Fanny Kemble, having married Pierce Butler, Jr., lived at this place
from 1835 until the fall of 1840. Many incidents in connection with her
home here and of the neighborhood, will be found in her "Records of Later
Life", from which the following is taken - -
"Butler Place - - or as I then called it, 'The Farm', preferring that
homely, and far more appropriate, though less distinctive appellation, to
the rather more pretentious title, which neither the extent of the property
nor size of style of the house warranted---was not then our own, and we
inhabited it by the kind allowance of an old relation to whom it belonged,
in consequence of my decided preference for a country to a town
residence.....Subsequently, I took great interest and pleasure in
endeavoring to improve and beautify the ground round the house; I made
flower-beds and laid out gravel-walks, and left an abiding mark of my
sojourn there in a double row of two hundred trees, planted along the side
of the place, bordered by the high-road; many of which, from my and my
assistants' combined ignorance, died, or came to no good growth. But those
that survived our unskillful operations, still form a screen of shade to the
grounds, and protect them in some measure from the dust and glare of the
highway."
Just about this point, a British outpost was stationed along the York Road.
Proceeding to Branchtown, on the northeast corner of York Road and Mill
Street,is the De Bennville graveyard. The house on the north, just beyond,
was built by Joseph Spencer in 1746, bought by Dr. De Benneville in 1758,
and named by his son "Silver Pine Farm". The Branchtown Hotel, immediately
opposite, was erected in 1790 by Joseph Spencer.
On the left side of the turnpike beyond Branchtown and at the bottom of
the hill is the entrance to Mr. Charles Wharton's place. Just inside the
gateway is a rough stone some eight or ten feet in height. Here are buried
four American soldiers, surprised and shot by the British as they met around
their camp fire, 1777. For a further account of the York Road and places
beyond this point, see: "The Old York Road and its Associations", by Mrs.
Anne De Benneville Mears, published in 1890.
Returning to Church Lane (Mill Street), which intersects the York Road
at Branchtown, and proceeding west (towards Germantown), at the bottom of
the hill, about half a mile from Branchtown, the road crosses what used to
be Wingohocking Creek. Within a few years, the road has been filled up and
the creek is barely visible on the left of the road; in the northeast angle
of the creek and the road was Roberts' Mill, built in 1683, the first in the
county. It was built by Richard Townsend, one of the passengers in the
Welcomer with William Penn. Later it was sold to the Lukens family and it
will be found plotted on the Revolutionary maps as Lukens' Mill. Early in
the century it passed to Hugh Roberts, and as Roberts' Mill it existed until
about 1873.
From the testimony of Richard Townsend, 1727: "As soon as Germantown
was laid out, I settled my tract of land, which was about a mile from
thence, where I set up a barn and a corn mill, which was very useful to the
country round. But there being few horses, people generally brought their
corn upon their backs, many miles. I remember, one had a bull so gentle,
that he used to bring corn on his back".
On the rise of ground back of the mill, the British had a small redoubt
guarding their encampment in Germantown. Here is the Roberts mansion built
early in the last century, now unoccupied and fast falling to decay.
Retracing our steps a short distance, at the northeast corner of Church
Lane and Dunton Street, standing back from the road and fronting west, with
a little white spring house in front on the meadow bank, is the old Spencer
farm house, which had been the birthplace and home of Thomas Godfrey, the
inventor of the quadrant. At his death in 1749, he was buried on the farm,
but many years later, his remains were removed to Laurel Hill Cemetery
through the efforts of John F. Watson, the annalist. During the removal,
the bones were deposited in the mill just mentioned, and Hugh Roberts, then
a boy, relates how he ran for his life on unexpectedly opening the mill door
and discovering the grinning skull there in the dusk of the evening.
"To guide the sailor in his wandering way,
See Godfrey's toils reverse the beams of day,
His lifted Quadrant to the eye displays
From adverse skies the counteracting rays;
And marks, as devious sails bewilder'd roll,
Each nice gradation from the stedfast pole."
From the Vision of Columbus, by Joel Barlow, 1787.
When the yellow fever drove the officers of the government to
Germantown, some of them lodged here, and George and Martha Washington were
at one time calling. Hepzibah Spencer, the daughter of the house, then a
child of four, crept up and peeped in the parlor window to see Mrs.
Washington. After taking a look, she turned to her companion and remarked
in deep disgust: "Why, she's nothing but a woman, after all".
Back of the house is the old brew house.
Returning to the Limekiln Pike, and turning up it about half a mile, we
reach Pittville. Here, occupying the Bayard property, northwest corner of
Haines Street and Limekiln Turnpike, is the Philadelphia National Cemetery
with many rows of the dead of the War of the Rebellion.
The third house above the tollgate on the right, lately remodeled, is what
was called in Revolutionary times, the Andrews place, now the home of Mr.
Middleton. The left wing of General Washington's army moved down this road
and a sharp encounter occurred with an outpost of the British at this point.
Isaac Woods, who was standing in a cellar door watching the fighting, was
killed by a stray bullet.
Returning to Haines Street and continuing on it westward towards Germantown,
the Township Line, anciently dividing Germantown from Bristol Township, is
crossed in about a quarter of a mile. On the east side of Township Line,
about a hundred yards north of Haines Street, high up on the bank above the
road, is an old house that at one time was the home of Colonel Thomas
Forrest, a resident of Germantown and an artillery officer in the Battle.
Continuing on Haines Street, about one hundred yards beyond the Township
Line, is the old Kulp family burial ground, the walls of which are fast
falling to ruin. A quarter of a mile beyond, the first farm house on the
left, standing close to the road, is a house that was the home of
Christopher Ludwig, "Baker-General" to the American Army. Reference has
already been made to this (#10).
Almost opposite is "Awbry", the park-like grounds containing the houses of
the Cope and Haines families.
A short distance beyond is Chew Street. On the east side of Chew Street,
some four squares north of Haines Street, standing back from the street, is
the Griffith House, which witnessed severe fighting at the time of the Battle.
Continuing on to Gorgas Lane and turning east on it, the tourist will find,
down in a field about three hundred yards south of Gorgas Lane and as many
from the railroad, the little Unruh house (#14).
Having now reached this point, the sightseer, if still ambitious, may cross
over to the west side of Germantown, up Chew street to Mount Airy Avenue, to
Main Street, to Allen's Lane, to Livezey's Lane, and take in reverse order
the excursion described in the following chapter.
EXCURSION, WEST SIDE OF GERMANTOWN
(The distance covered by this excursion one way is about six miles)
Starting at the Wayne Avenue end of Wayne Junction, thence up Wayne to
Apsley, to Pulaski, to West Logan, to Morris, to Clapier, to McKean Street.
At the foot of McKean Street is Fern Hill, formerly the estate of Louis
Clapier, a famous merchant in the China and India trade. In 1812, one of
his ships, the Dorothea, was given up as lost at sea or captured by the
English, but she came safely into port, bringing her owner a rich return.
On purchasing this property in Germantown, he placed an iron model of the
Dorothea on the barn as a weather vane, where it still remains. The estate
was sold to Henry P. McKean in 1842. His son, Thomas McKean, built a yacht
which was named the Dorothea; this boat was purchased by the Government
during the Spanish war. The story of the vane and its connection with the
yacht, being made known to Secretary of the Navy Long, he retained the name
Dorothea.
Watson says: "In the year 1789, a Resolution passed the House of
Representatives, then in session in New York, that the permanent set of
government ought to be on the banks of the Susquehanna, in Pennsylvania; but
it was amended in the Senate by fixing upon Germantown as its site. Upon
being returned to the House, the amendment was approved and sent back again
to the Senate, for a slight amendment, providing that Pennsylvania laws
should continue in force, in such Federal district, until Congress should
legislate otherwise. Thereupon, the subject was postponed until the next
session; and thus, our old Germantown, after being fixed upon by both
Houses, was wholly laid aside!"
It is the understanding that the plateau and bluff which enjoys an
extended outlook over the city and is now occupied by Fern Hill was one of
the tracts of land intended for the location of the Capitol.
Proceeding northward on McKean Avenue two squares, the grounds of the
Germantown Cricket Club are reached. The large old house at the right of the
entrance is a Fraley house. In 1798, Henry Fraley and his son John
purchased from Joseph Shippen, a tract, which they proceeded to develop by
opening streets and laying out lots. They called it the village of Manheim.
Federal, Columbia and Tammany Streets were among those named and laid out.
Either the venture was not a success, or the lots were bought by those who
wished large tracts of land, for all traces of the proposed village long ago
disappeared.
The frame building a hundred feet within the entrance formerly stood
close to Manheim Street and was the country seat of the Price family. It is
now the Ladies' Club House. Visitors should note the bronze tablet the
directors have placed on the building and on the old Price stable, now a
club house used by the Junior members; they should also visit the
old-fashioned garden with its sundial and graveled walks. When Germantown
was occupied by the British, the level plain about here was covered with a
portion of the encampment. They destroyed the fences, using them for
firewood and for constructing shelters, which they roofed with straw and
with soda to hold them in place.
Leaving Manheim and proceeding westward to Wissahickon Avenue, or Township
Lane, for it divides Germantown from Roxborough, thence along Wissahickon
Avenue two squares to Queen Lane, and westward out Queen Lane about two
squares, we come to Carlton, a long white building with a beautiful setting
of trees, on a knoll at the right. This was the mansion of Henry Hill,
erected on the site, or perhaps including an old farm house which also
belonged to him, and was Washington's headquarters on two occasions, the
first week in August, 1777, and again for two days in September, before and
immediately after the Battle of Brandywine.
When the British army occupied Germantown, the Hessian detachment
occupied the left wing from the village to the Schuylkill and General
Knyphausen had his headquarters here.
Some years ago, the lawn, having become full of weeds, was plowed up,
yielding a plentiful crop of English coins.
Continuing on past the house towards Queen Lane reservoir, we come to a
granite stone erected by the Sons of the Revolution in 1895, to commemorate
the encampment of the American army at this point.
Proceeding one square north to Midvale Avenue, the street back of
Carlton, there is a much closer view of the house and the barn. Built in
the high stable wall is a stone with this inscription:--
_______________
Ruined by
the war
1777
rebuilt
more firmly
by the
trusty
Isaac Tustin.
This tablet was taken from an old farm house nearby, which will soon
have crumbled entirely away, and placed in its present position by Mr.
Smith, the owner of Carlton.
Returning to Wissahickon Avenue and turning northward five squares above, at
the bottom of a steep hill, we come to Rittenhouse Street; turn to the left
and follow it down to Lincoln Drive. Almost directly opposite the junction
of the streets is a little house, below the level of Lincoln Drive, that was
the birthplace of David Rittenhouse, Pennsylvania's first and greatest
astronomer. The house was erected in 1707, and David Rittenhouse was born
here April 8th, 1732. Soon after, his parents moved to Norristown. David
Rittenhouse, besides being a famous astronomer, was elected President of the
Philosophical Society in 1791 and served until his death; Treasurer of the
State from 1777 to 1789; Director of the Mint from 1792 to 1795. He died 1796.
William Rittenhouse, the first of the name in America, arrived in 1690,
and was the first paper maker in the Colonies. The mill was located near
this house. It was washed away by a freshet in 1701 and another built; this
in time was succeeded by another, and it by a fourth in 1780. The little
stream was Monoshone Creek, but the popular name is Paper Mill Run. William
Rittenhouse was an early Mennonite preacher. His oldest son was Mathias
Rittenhouse, whose youngest son was Nicholas Rittenhouse, and David
Rittenhouse was the latter's oldest son.
Up to within a few years, there was a cluster of houses around the
roads at this point and the settlement was called Rittenhouse Town.
Returning along Lincoln Drive to Wissahickon Avenue, we cross Paper Mill Run
over an old county bridge, and continuing northward past Blue Bell Hill, as
the settlement on Wissahickon Avenue at Walnut Lane is called, in about
three-quarters of a mile, a long white house on the west side of the road is
reached, called "Spring Bank", for many years the summer home of the Hon.
John Welsh. During his life, Mr. Welsh donated several acres to the Park,
including Molly Runker's Rock, almost in the rear of Spring Bank, where
later he erected the heroic statue of William Penn, which overlooks the
Valley of the Wissahickon. It is marked with the single expressive word,
"Toleration". Mr. Welsh died April 10th, 1886. The property is now in
possession of his daughter, Mrs. Smith.
Two hundred yards further on, Kitchen's Lane is reached. Turning down it, at
the bottom of the hill is the Wissahickon Valley and Creek. Here on the
east bank of the stream, near the summit of a hill and about two hundred
yards north of the road, is the "Monastery". It was erected by Joseph
Gorgas, between the years 1746-52 upon the site of a log cabin erected in
1737, which was used as a community house by German Dunkard enthusiasts and
was called, on this account, the Kloster. This house, so far as known, was
never used for any monastic purpose. Right at the foot of the house, along
the banks of the stream, was the Baptistry where the Dunkards baptized their
converts. The Monastery is now within the limits of the Park. It is a
short distance from here down the Bridle Path to the statue of William Penn,
referred to above.
Returning to Wissahickon Avenue and continuing northward after crossing
another one of the old country bridges and climbing a hill, Allen's Lane is
reached, Wissahickon Avenue ending in it. A few hundred feet east,
Livezey's Lane takes off from it still in a northerly direction. This, too,
leads down to the Wissahickon at what was Livezey's Mill, a famous one in
its time. The old Livezey house is still standing. During the Revolution,
Thomas Livezey hid several casks of wine by sinking them in his dam. Some
of it was still preserved within recent years. At the time of the Battle,
Thomas Livezey, hearing the roar of cannon, climbed the hill to get a view
of the fighting, but a stray bullet broke a limb off the tree under which he
was. He concluded it was best to return to the house. Descendants of the
Livezeys, of the same name, still own considerable land in the vicinity.
Not far above the Livezey house, along a pleasant and easy path along the
Wissahickon where Cresheim Creek flows into it, is the Devil's Pool.
From this point, the tourist may either return by the Wissahickon Drive
or by crossing over to Gorgas Lane on the east side of the Main Street, the
excursion planned for the east side of Germantown may be taken reversely,
bringing one eventually back to Wayne Junction.
BATTLE OF GERMANTOWN
After the defeat of the American Army at the Brandywine, in the month of
September 1777, and the occupation of Philadelphia by the British Army,
General Washington, reinforced by detachments from the Northern army and by
the Militia of New Jersey and Pennsylvania, took up a strong position
twenty-five miles from the city near the Perkiomen, a creek emptying into
the Schuylkill. The bulk of the British army was posted at Germantown, with
a view to command the approaches to the city and overawe the surrounding
country. The Market Square was the centre of the line. The right extended
along Mill street to Luken's (Roberts') mill and was composed of the
Grenadier Guards and six battalions of the Line, the whole under General
Grant. The left extended along School House Lane to Ridge Avenue, and was
composed of the Third and Fourth Brigades under Generals Grey and Agnew, and
the Hessians, who were on the extreme left with a picket at the Wissahickon,
the whole under Lieutenant General Knyphausen. Two battalions of the guard
were posted in the rear of the town near to Fisher's Lane. General Howe's
headquarters were at Stenton, the house of Dr. George Logan, at that time in
England. Two battalions were in advance of the centre on the Main street,
the Fortieth Regiment at the Chew house, and the other, the Fifty-second
Light Infantry, at Mount Airy, with a picket at the place of Chief Justice
Allen, afterwards James Gowen's property. A battalion was stationed in
advance of the right on the Limekiln Turnpike at Washington Lane, and the
Queen's Rangers, a provincial organization, were posted in the rear of the
right on the York Road below Branchtown.
The American commander, having received information that a portion of
the enemy's force had been detached to assist in the reduction of the forts
on the Delaware, determined to strike a sudden blow upon the army posted at
Germantown, arriving on the morning of the 3rd of October, and to give the
impression of forming a permanent camp at that place. That night, the whole
army was ordered to move at seven o'clock down the Skippack Road to the
Bethelehem Turnpike, and there separate at certain points into four columns,
each to move by a separate route. On the morning of the 3rd of October,
1777, the American army arrived at the proposed distance from the British
line and went into camp with headquarters at the house of Mr. J. Wentz, and
at 7 o'clock that evening again took up the line of march. At the White
Marsh Church, General Smallwood, with the militia of Maryland and New
Jersey, moved into the York Road to get in the rear of the British right.
General Green with his own division and that of General Stephens and the
brigade of General McDougall marched on to the Limekiln Road to attack the
British right. The rest of the army marched on down the Bethlehem Turnpike
to Chestnut Hill, near which George Danenhower, a soldier and a native of
Germantown, continued over to the Ridge Road, down which they marched to get
in the rear of the British left. The remainder of the army, composed of
Sullivan's and Wayne's divisions, with the brigade of General Conway, the
whole under the command of General Sullivan, followed by the reserve
division under Lord Stirling, accompanied by the Commander-in-Chief with his
staff, marched by the main road down through Chestnut Hill to the village of
Germantown to attack the enemy's left. You will thus see how extended was
the plan of attack and will appreciate how necessary it was in order to
achieve success that its different parts should work together without
friction or failure.
The several days preceding October 4th had been fair and delightful,
but the mornings had been noticably foggy. When General Sullivan's division
reached the Mermaid Tavern at the northern boundry of Mount Airy, where
Cresheim Creek crossed the Main Street, the sun was just rising above the
hills, but it soon buried itself in a bank of cloud, and a fog more dense
than usual settled over the town. Some chronicles have stated that, at
times, it was difficult to see a hundred feet away, others have said a
hundred yards. It is probable that the shifting fog clouds rolling in waves
would now and then lift and give at times a wider range of vision, but soon
there was no discovering friend from foe. To prevent mistaking each other,
the soldiers and officers had been ordered to place a piece of white paper
in their hats, but this precaution if obeyed was ineffective; to make
matters worse, Thomas Paine, who was present at the Battle, says that the
Americans were rendered suspicious of each other by many of them being
dressed in red.
General Sullivan's division formed on the right of the road, which
would be the west, and General Wayne on the east. Sullivan was the first to
come into action, attacking the picket at the Allen house and killing all
the sentries, he carried all before him and drove the enemy in confusion
until at last they, with reinforcements from below, were able to make a
stand on both sides of the Main street at the Mennonite Church below
Tulpohocken Street. To the east of the road, General Greene also pushed on
and passed the Chew House.
In the meantime, Washington, with the reserve division, had arrived at
the Billmyer House, about which time it was discovered that six companies of
the 40th Regiment under command of Colonel Musgrave, during the retreat from
Mount Airy, had taken refuge in the Chew House, and barricading the doors
and windows of the first story were keeping up a steady fire from the upper
windows upon the road and its vicinity. Both Sullivan's and Greene's
divisions had passed the house before its occupancy by the British had been
discovered. After a council of war held near the Billmyer House, Washington
ordered the attack upon the Chew House by Maxwell's Brigade of the reserve
and sent the other brigade of the reserve, Nash's, to strengthen Sullivan's
line at Washington Lane.
Meanwhile, General Greene had commenced fighting on the Limekiln road,
and after some delay, owing to the fog, in which the division of General
Stephen's had gone astray and the brigade of McDougall had gone too far to
the left, he formed his own division in line just above Pittville, and
moving over the fields, made a vigorous attack upon the British right,
capturing the redoubt near Lukens' mill, and was in a fair way to penetrate
into the town at Market Square.
By this time also Armstrong, on the Ridge Road, had arrived in front of
the Hessians and was skirmishing with them, using his field piece on the
heights above the Wissakickon.
The battle was now general along the line, except on the York Road,
where Smallwood was approaching Branchtown. Sullivan, reinforced by Nash's
brigade, began to push the enemy towards the centre of town. It seemed at
this time as if the British army was practically defeated; the utmost
consternation prevailed and orders were actually given for the various corps
to rendezvous at Chester. Unfortunately, at this moment, a panic arose in
General Wayne's command by some one calling out that they were surrounded,
and the continuous firing at the Chew house, together with the approach in
the rear of one of General Greene's brigades, which had gone astray in the
fog and was mistaken for the enemy, and the beating of a drum at the Chew
house, supposed to be a signal for retreat, all combined to throw Wayne's
division into confusion, and despite the remonstrances of their officers,
the troops began to retreat.
The retirement of Wayne uncovered the left of Sullivan, and his line
being somewhat extended and disordered and his ammunition exhausted, he was
compelled to give the order to retire. Washington fearing a general rout,
sent messengers to recall Smallwood and Armstrong, as well as Greene, who
was sill successfully engaged with the enemy and who was forced also to
receive an atack from portion of the left wing of that army. He fell back
stubbornly contesting the ground and giving time for the other divisions to
withdraw. The retreat was conducted in good order. The British advanced in
pursuit, having been reinforced by Lord Cornwallis with the Grenadiers and
Light Infantry, who had run all the way from the city. Generals Gray and
Agnew led up their brigades in columnms along the Main Street in pursuit.
When the latter, at the head of his troops, reached the Mennonite Meeting
House, he was mortally wounded by a shot from some one in ambush in the
graveyard, and falling from his horse, was carried to the rear. The pursuit
was continued to Chestnut Hill and then given up. The British returned to
the city and the American army to its former camping ground on the
Perkiomen. The battle lasted from early dawn until after ten o'clock.
The loss of the Americans was as follows: Killed, officers 30; men
122. Wounded, officers 13; men 58. Wounded, officers 55; men 395. Total 521.
Colonel Matthews, with the 9th Virginia Regiment of Greene's division,
became separated from their command and were captured in Mill Street near
the Market Square. Many officers and men were slain in the attack upon the
Chew House.
FRANCIS DANIEL PASTORIUS
(Prelude to the Pennsylvania Pilgrim)
I sing the Pilgrim of a softer clime
And milder speech than those brave men's who brought
To the ice and iron of our winter time
A will as firm, a creed as stern, and wrought
With one mailed hand, and with the other fought
Simply, as fits my theme, in homely rhyme
I sing the blue-eyed German Spener taught
Through whose veiled, mystic faith the Inward Light,
Steady amd still, an easy brightness, shone,
Transfiguring all things in its radiance white.
The garland which his meekness never sought
I bring him; over fields of harvest sown
With seeds of blessing, now to ripeness grown,
I bid the sower pass before the reapers' sight.
John Greenleaf Whittier.
There seems no proper place in the description of localities to mention
Francis Daniel Pastorius, and any book of Germantown, even a guide book,
would be incomplete without some allusion to him. He was born in
Sommerhausen, Germany, September 26th, 1651. He reached Philadelphia August
6th, 1683. He first built a little house in Philadelphia, but later he
moved to Germantown and became the leader, cousellor, lawyer, teacher and
conveyancer for his countrymen. He was one of the best educated men in the
colonies, being familiar with and writing fluently German, Italian, French,
Dutch, English, Spanish, Greek and Latin. He kept the records of the court,
was bailiff of the borough, a justice of the peace and member of the
Assembly, 1687 and 1691. He looked after the affairs of the Frankfort
Company, the company owning the land comprised in Germantown, until 1700.
He wrote a primer, which was the first original school book printed in
Pennsylvania. Seven of his books were printed, besides which he left
forty-three works in manuscript. It was his name which appeared on the
protest against slavery, issued in 1688, handed into his meeting and by it
referred to the Monthly Meeting as mentioned, and it was written by him.
Pastorius married November 25th, 1688, Anna Klostermann, in Germantown.
They were the parents of two sons, Johann Samuel, born March 30th, 1690, and
Henry, born April 1st, 1692.
In 1698, Pastorius was master of the Friends School in Philadelphia and
his home in Germantown stood idle. His home stood where now is the new
Methodist Church, between Dr. Alexis Smith's house, No. 6019 Main Street,
and Dr. Dunton's house, which originally stood where High Street is now
opened through. Dr. Dunton tore the house down some thirty years ago, and
stones from it were used to build the rear portion of his present house, now
No. 25 High Street.
Dr. Christopher Witt was Pastorius' neighbor and at one time, they
exchanged verses by throwing them over the fence to each other. They were
both interested in flowers and horticulture and their verses related to
these subjects.
Pastorius left a remarkable book called "The Beehive", a volume of
family and miscellaneous matters containing a thousand pages of history,
agriculture, philosophy, poetry, laws, etc., written in seven languages.
The book is still in possession of the family, but is at present deposited
in the Library of the University of Pennsylvania.
Whittier has immortalized Pastorius and the placid life of the
Germantown settlers in his "Pennsylvania Pilgrim".
Pastorius died February 27th, 1719. It is not known where he was
buried, but it is supposed in the Friend's burial ground on the Main Street
above Coulter.
Some of his descendants of the name Pastorius are still living in
Germantown. For much other information concerning this talented and useful
man, see Judge Pennypacker's "Settlement of Germantown".