Clay County AlArchives News.....History of Clay County Alabama by John R. McCain 1936
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Ashland Progress 1936
History of Clay County
By John R. McCain 
Circuit Clerk.

March 26, 1936

This writer has often been questioned by people, especially young people, very 
many of them school students, for different historical facts about Clay County, 
and in more than one way. I have written a good many historical articles on Clay 
County. With your permission we will give some of the history of the county. Of 
course, I do not profess to know it all by any means, and with little or no time 
to give to the matter, I may not give specific dates in number of cases, but 
what I do say will be historically true. To begin with, the Legislature, or 
General Assembly, of Alabama, by an act approved in the early part of 1867, 
carved the County of Clay from the counties of Talladega and Randolph. Where the 
town of Lineville is now located was the line between the two above named 
counties. The place was called County Line until the formation of Clay. Moses 
Russell, father of our present citizen, James H. Russell was then conducting a 
mercantile business at County Line and was also postmaster. The place not being 
on the line anymore, he suggested that the name be changed from County Line to 
Lineville, which was done. There was no Ashland at that time. The first courts 
held in what is now Clay County were held in the old Baptist Church at 
Lineville, then called Crooked Creek Baptist Church. The people decided to 
locate the county seat at or about the center of the county, as it was then. An 
election was held, and it was determined that the center was then about a mile 
south-west of where Ashland is now located. As we have all along been informed, 
one Hollingsworth Watts, owning the lands about where Ashland is now, offered to 
donate forty acres, if the county seat were located on it. His offer was 
accepted, and Ashland located. It was determined to name the county for Henry 
Clay, Kentucky's great statesman. That being done, it was decided to name the 
county seat Ashland for Clay's come town in Kentucky. That was done, and as soon 
as could well be done a wooden courthouse and a log jail were erected in 
Ashland. James L. Williams was named the first judge of probate, but a question 
was raised about his oath of allegiance to the federal government. We must bear 
in mind that this was during reconstruction, a few years after the close of the 
War Between the States. Judge Williams was not then allowed to serve, and J. L. 
Bellamy was named by the provisional governor of Alabama, but later, when the 
people got a chance to name their choice, Judge Williams was named and served 
until he died in 1880.

April 2, 1936

While we have no authentic information that it is true, yet legend has it that 
DeSoto, in his wanderings, traversed this part of the country and possibly was 
on what is now Clay County soil. Indians were not numerous in this particular 
part of the country, but prior to the Creek Thready of 1832 there were a number 
of Indian settlements in different parts of what is now Clay County. General 
Jackson, on his march from Fort Strother, now Talladega, in 1814, on his way to 
the decisive battle of Horseshoe Bend, where Weatherford and his army of Indian 
braves were about wiped out, had a skirmish could hardly be called a battle with 
the Indians at the bend of the creek just south of old Bluff Springs, many 
evidence of that have since been found and are yet to be seen. There was an 
Indian settlement of some consequence at that place. A number of Indians were 
buried there. And as is true in so many cases, legend has it that valuable 
treasures were buried with the Indian chief or chiefs at that place. In recent 
years Indians have come from the west and made efforts to find those treasures 
holes were dug in places, but if the Indians found anything, of course they did 
not report it. The rivers and creeks of this section about all bear Indian 
names. Three of our adjoining counties Coosa, Talladega and Tallapoosa are 
Indian names, all carrying an Indian meaning. The Mississippi Territory, of 
which Alabama was a part, was created in 1817 and two years later, or 1819, 
Alabama was admitted to statehood. Several parts of the state had then been 
settled for a good while, but the territory now embraced by Clay County had but 
few settlers. Comparatively few large farms were established by slave holders on 
Clay County territory. In the northern part of the county, of Fish-head Valley, 
Joseph Kennedy and a few others owned slaves and established rather large farms. 
In what is now the Lineville territory there were several slave owners before 
the War between the States which freed them. William P. and John T. Bell, L. M. 
Burney, Jemison Ware, Billy Lowe and some others owned slaves. In other sections 
of the county there were a few slave owners. Merritt Street, the largest 
landowner in the county, was a slave owner, but no Clay County citizen had a 
large number of slaves. Prior to the War between the States most of the lands in 
Clay County were in virgin forest. Fine timber, pine and hardwood, abounded all 
over the county, and wildlife was plentiful in most all parts of the county at 
that time. There were a number of small church buildings over the county, 
wherever a settlement of any consequence had been established, very soon a 
church house of some character or order was established. Clay county citizens 
have been a church people during the history of the territory. Schoolhouses at 
the beginning were mostly almost entirely of the one-room class, and one teacher 
class. Prof. J. L. McClellan and wife, who taught in the old Lineville Academy, 
were said to be the first college graduates to teach in Clay County. That old 
Lineville Academy, located where the Lineville Grammar School is now, was the 
first school in the county to do high school work. While there were but few high 
school students then, those few did some splendid work. Judge E. J. Garrison was 
advanced far enough in that school to get an A. B. degree from Auburn in one 
session, and his education has long spoken for itself and yet does.

April 9, 1936

No doubt that it will be a matter of interest to every person now doing business 
in Ashland to know, and doubtless many of them do not, that according to Uncle 
Daniel J. Coleman, one Lish Green was the first man to build a grocery store in 
Ashland and Jim Nelson was the first dry goods merchant in Ashland. This writer 
did not know these facts, but our first article drew this information from our 
good citizen, Mr. D. J. Coleman, who was living in Ashland as a boy at the time. 
Just as this interesting information came, we hope that many others of our older 
citizens will submit facts of historical interest. We will be glad to make 
record of anything of historical interest and give due credit to each one who 
submits facts. As will be readily recognized the names Green and Nelson have 
both intimately associated with the business and community life of Ashland and 
surrounding country through all intervening years. Recalling that Clay County 
was not created until 1867 and Ashland came in after that, the period covered is 
about sixty-five years. Among the first businessmen of Ashland this writer 
recalls were H. A. Manning and Uncle "Foxie" Robertson (We don't recall Uncle 
Foxie's initials, but all the older people of this county will remember him most 
pleasantly.) The Nelsons, Whites, Williams, Allens, Pearces, Mannings, Blacks, 
and many other pioneer settlers of the town at once suggests themselves in the 
building of the business, social, civic, educational and religious life and 
development of the time. Newsome, a Republican in politics, was the first 
representative in the lawmaking body of Alabama from Clay County. "Jimmie" 
White, a lawyer, prominent and useful citizen in the early days of Ashland, was 
the first Democratic representative from Clay County. From the very beginning of 
the county the name White was prominent in the political history of the county, 
as well as in many other phases. The late J. A. White, so long an active citizen 
of Ashland, served in the public interest of the county throughout a long and 
useful career. According to Uncle Daniel Coleman there was just a little log 
schoolhouse where Ashland is now when Lish Green built his first store house. 
The first jail was built of double logs.

April 16, 1936

In our historical articles so far, we have neglected to say what was and is one 
of the chief purposes in writing and publishing these historical sketches on 
Clay County. We undertook the task by invitation in fact from numbers and 
numbers of requests, reaching back for years. This writer did not undertake the 
task because of any superior knowledge he had on the subject, for indeed, we 
know but very little of the history of the county, but we have worked at it a 
good deal along, especially when we were connected with the school interest of 
the county. At one time we had in manuscript form an almost complete history of 
the schools at Lineville but leaving the manuscript in a bookcase in Lineville 
while I worked in Montgomery a good many years, rata destroyed my manuscript, 
meaning a loss of much hard and earnest work. We realize that we have already 
waited entirely too long about this work. So many of the men and women who were 
the chief characters on the stage of activity while our splendid history was in 
the making have passed away and from their lips, we can glean no knowledge now. 
One chief purpose in agreeing to undertake the task now is with the hope that as 
our older people, or younger ones, read what we record, other important things 
will suggest themselves to the readers, and if we should fall into errors, maybe 
there are those yet living who can give us the correct information, and this we 
most earnestly ask and seek. We will especially appreciate any and all authentic 
history anyone will give us. As an illustration, after reading our first 
article, Uncle Daniel Coleman came to the writer and asked him if he knew who 
the first merchants were in Ashland. We did not know, but Uncle Daniel was 
living near Ashland at the time and knew, and he has promised to submit that and 
other important facts which we will be quite glad to publish, giving him full 
credit as we desire to do in all cases. As we do not mean to ask much space at 
the time, let me again ask any and all who read this and who are interested in 
the history of our county to please supply us with any information you may have 
of historical interest. Referring to the first settlements in what is now Clay 
County, on April 7, 1836, one-hundred years ago today, Seaborn McCain, great 
uncle of this writer and grandfather of Roscoe M. McCain, settled with his young 
wife on Crooked Creek, at the place now owned by Mr. James N. Swift. His nearest 
neighbor at that time was John Bishop, who lived near Bluff Springs. That gives 
a pretty clear idea of how few white people had at that time settled in what is 
Clay County. About that time Duncan Brown, the first white man to settle about 
Brownville, settled there and the place was named for him. The following year, 
1837, Seaborn McCain went back to Tennessee and three of his brothers, James G., 
Henry and Vance McCain, came back with him and settled on adjoining lands. Jas. 
G. McCain, father of Rev. James E. McCain, father of this writer. My father was 
then a small boy, and he often told me how they moved in wagons from Tennessee, 
bringing their cattle and hogs on foot through the country. In these modern days 
of transportation such a move would seem all too long and trying, and they would 
be, but that was the only way to get about at that time. It will be recalled 
that this was soon after the Creek Treaty with the Indians in 1832. Not all the 
Indians had left here then. A few Indians were left then in what is now Clay 
County. Those first settlers had the pick of the lands. They entered what they 
could and bought at a very cheap price other land. Seaborn McCain secured an old 
rifle gun which was transmitted down the line to members of the family until 
Roscoe M. McCain presented it with its history to the Alabama Department of 
Archives and History. The territory embracing the village of old Pinckneyville 
was settled at an early date, but we have not at hand a record, or the names of 
the first settlers there. It was about that time that the Campbells and a few 
others settled in what has long been known as "Campbell's Valley," up between 
spurs of the mountains in western part of the county. Joseph Kennedy, Abraham 
Leverett, James and Henry Armstrong and the Striplins settled in north Clay, or 
"Fish-head Valley." Some years after that Dr. Daniel C. Harris, a botanical 
doctor, settled in Fish-head. The McClintocks, Jenkins and McColloughs and 
others, including the father of Dr. A. R. Stephens, settled about Delta. Thomas 
F. Lundy, James L. Barnhill, Augustus West, Jemison Ware, William P. and John T. 
Bell were among the first settlers in the present Lineville territory. Billy 
Lowe, Isaac Young. W. H. Hardy and others settled on the eastern side of what is 
now Clay County. Dr. Jacob King was one of the pioneer physicians of the 
Lineville territory. He was quite a unique character, as well as most useful 
one.

April 23, 1936

I am glad to make a correction. It was Lish Greer instead of Lish Green who had 
the first grocery store in Ashland. This is according to Mr. Thomas who was a 
boy here at the time. I just misread Uncle Daniel Coleman. I am sure he Lish 
Greer instead of Green and I am glad to make the correction. The probate office 
being the one of most interest in the county we will give a brief history of 
that here and now. As previously stated, Judge Jas. L. Williams, not being 
allowed to serve when first named, after a term by J. L. Bellamy, Judge Williams 
came in and served until his death in 1880. Prof. Hiram M, Evans was appointed 
judge of probate and served the county until about 1892 when E. A. Phillips was 
elected. After Phillips served one term W. M. Whatley was elected and left the 
office before his term expired. Dr. S. J. Gay was appointed and served until F. 
J. Ingram was elected. Judge Ingram served two terms and was succeeded by A. A. 
Northen. Judge Northen resigned before his term was out and O. B. Cornelius was 
appointed to serve out the term. Then C. S. Phillips was elected and served one 
term and was succeeded by Judge E. J. Garrison who served two full terms, being 
succeeded by Judge Frank B. Thompson, the present judge. The first courthouse in 
Clay County was built of wood and was burned in March 1875. There is a record 
that shows that Judge Jas. L. Williams and two commissioners, James L. Barnhill 
and a Mr. Brewer, sat as the commission who ordered the first brick courthouse 
built. We have no court records in the clerk's office prior to 1876. It seems 
that Judge Williams happened to have the marriage record book at his residence 
when the courthouse was burned and the county has that record, reaching back to 
1872. Possibly there is one deed recorded, at least some deeds are recorded that 
reach back that far, but those seeking court records will not find them prior to 
1876. From there on down the court records are very clear. In transcribing a 
number of said records last year for the State Department of Archives and 
History at Montgomery, we were pleased to find that most all the records are 
clear, that the ink is not faded to hurt, and the records are not difficult to 
trace. In a previous article we mentioned some of the early merchants of 
Ashland. We should. have included Bill Young among the early ones. It was Uncle 
Jimmie Robinson whom we knew as "Uncle Foxie" Robinson. Let me again say that we 
will greatly appreciate all the correct history anyone will furnish us. We want 
the facts just as they were.

April 30, 1936

And still they come. Mrs. Nora Nelson Mayo, Talladega, writes living valuable 
information about the first settlement of Ashland. It seems that her father, 
James Nelson, was not only a businessman, but also a contractor and built a 
number of the first houses about Ashland, the courthouse among others. Among the 
first residences built in Ashland was one by a Mr. Watkins. located about where 
the property of Mrs. Alice Whatley's is now. A Mr. A. Z. Wilkins was the first 
child born in Ashland, according to Mrs. Mayo's letter. She tells of her father 
building a four-room house where Mrs. Wilson's home is now and there entertained 
the lawyers and others who came to Ashland to the early court. She also tells of 
the early whisky shops and how men would fight, but lever using any weapons 
except their fists. That was a code of honor at that time. She also tells of the 
first three guests of the first Ashland jail. Back in the beginning of Ashland, 
she tells of the contract her father took build a schoolhouse south of the 
present town square. She names the following as men who gave $100.00 each to 
build the schoolhouses Judge Wm. J. Pearce, Jimmie Robison, Judge James L. 
Williams James Nelson. These represent names of men who contributed much to the 
educational, civic, business and religious life of the town and community, all 
of whom are pleasantly and gratefully remembered by many yet living. We 
sincerely hope that others will follow the example of Mrs. Mayo and give us all 
the authentic facts possible. We deeply regret that movement was not put on foot 
by come one years ago before so many our men and women who made the history of 
Clay County passed way and cannot now tell us what they knew, but with the 
cooperation of all friends of the movement we hope to gather many facts and 
publish them for the benefit of those who come after us. More and more the 
history of the county will become important. It will be recalled that several 
places were settled in the county before there was any Ashland. Such places as 
Pinckneyville, Brownville, Lineville, then County Line, Fish-head Valley, some 
settlements in Coleta, about old Wesobulga now Cragford, old Mellow Valley. 
settlements were made in the Campbell Valley at an early date. The first schools 
of much consequence were at Lineville, Pinckneyville and Brownville. Duncan 
Brown was the first white man to settle at Brownville, a community which has 
furnished many educators of note in later years. The Drs. Slaughters were 
leading educators at Pinckneyville for years.

May 7, 1936

The history of the medical profession in Clay County is as vital and important 
as any we have. We have had many doctors who endeared themselves to the people 
by their professional ability and fidelity and the energy displayed in covering 
at all times of the night and day a rough country. For many years Clay County 
roads were very rough indeed. Such pioneer doctors as Dr. Jacob King, of whom 
mention has been made before, did much of their practice by traveling mere 
trails through the hills and mountains. Dr. King was truly a pioneer doctor and 
a very unique. character. He was one of those original characters who could and 
did say what he thought to any one he pleased, and he could and did get by with 
it If he saw anything in any home which he thought was wrong, he would plainly 
tell the one doing wrong so, and administer a lecture that one was not apt to 
forget. He did a great deal of good, and his memory will be honored for many 
years yet to come. Soon after the establishment of Ashland there were such 
doctors as Dr. Cantrell, who lived east of Ashland, Dr. Sims, Dr. Scarbrough, 
and our present Dr. J. W. Jordan came to Ashland during its early history. Dr. 
John W. Garrison, father of Judge E. J. Garrison, came from Pinckneyville to 
Lineville and did an extensive and successful practice until his death about the 
year 1879.  Dr. Coker practiced at Millerville, but just how long we are not now 
advised. Dr. Steadham lived and practiced in the Lineville community. In the 
early eighties. Dr. Thomas Northen came from Chambers County to Lineville, and 
after an active practice there for a number of years, be moved to Oxford, Ala. 
He did not remain at Oxford long, and when he came back to Clay County, he 
located at Ashland where he practiced until his health gave way. Dr. Northen did 
great deal of practice for the people of Clay County. His oldest son. Dr. Chas. 
S. Northen, practiced in Clay a good many years. Dr. A. R. Stephens, reared at 
Delta, north Clay, began the practice of medicine there many years ago and is 
still at it. He has done a great service for the people of north Clay. Dr. Wyatt 
H. Blake came from his native Randolph via Anniston to Lineville and did a large 
and successful practice in the county many years. Dr. Lee Stephens first 
established himself at Millerville where he practiced several years and then 
went to Texas where he is still in the service. As we understand there were two 
of the older Drs. Slaughter at Pinckneyville, father and grandfather of the late 
Dr. M. J. Slaughter of Millerville. The Slaughters were doctors, teachers, 
preachers and useful and prominent men in many ways. Some thirty-six or more 
years ago Dr. S. J. Gay came from Randolph County to Lineville where he did an 
active practice until his death. Dr. S. W. Owens practiced for many years near 
Bluff Spring before moving to Ashland where he did an extensive and successful 
practice for many years, being succeeded by at least two of his sons, Dr. Arthur 
Owens at Ashland and Dr. Seaborn Owens at Cragford. The late Dr. W. A. Campbell 
practiced for many years about Pyriton and northwest Clay. Dr. B. A. Stephens 
has been doing an active practice in Clay County for many years and is still 
doing so. Dr. J. L. Hilt came to Lineville a good many years ago from Chambers 
County and has been doing an extensive practice in the Lineville section these 
many years. Dr. C. P. Gay practiced in Clay a good many years before moving 
south. Dr Jas. S. Gay did his first practice in Clay about Delta, but he has 
been doing an extensive practice from Ashland a good many years. The late Dr. M. 
J. Slaughter did an extensive practice from Millerville for many years. Dr. J. 
M. Barfield, except while he was in the U. S. Army has done most of his practice 
from Lineville and where he is still active in the work. Other doctors have been 
in and out at different times.

May 14, 1936

Be it said to our eternal credit Clay County people have been essentially a 
church-going people from the very beginning. From the very beginning, wherever 
enough people settled in a given community to establish a place of religious 
worship, a church house of some kind was built. All of them for many years were 
of wood, and many of the first ones were built of logs, but a church of some 
sort adorned each community of citizens. In the pioneer days it was quite a 
custom to oldest camp-meetings, places where people would erect small huts, or 
tents, in which they would meet annually, usually in the fall season, bringing 
their families and supplies and camp for a week or ten days, holding religious 
ser vices four and five times per day and night. Perhaps there are not many 
people now living in Clay who ever attended one of these old-time camp-meetings 
certainly not within the territory now embraced by Clay County, but there were 
at least four or more places where camp-meetings were conducted for many years. 
Sometimes bush arbors were used instead of buildings. One of the oldest camp-
meeting places in what is now Clay County is a place a, little south of the late 
Bill Spark's home. we are not quite sure, but it our memory is correct it was 
called Ebenezer Campground. Another place is where Black's Chapel is now, 
between Lineville and Delta. That place is yet often called Black's Campground. 
Another campground was Coldwater, in Pinckneyville Beat, a little north-east of 
old Elias post office or Cleveland's Crossroads. At Brownville Presbyterian 
church camp-meetings have been held in more recent years. The father of this 
writer, Rev, James E. McCain began his ministry at the early age of 17 years and 
at tended all these old camp-meetings. He made his first effort at preaching in 
the private home of Uncle Dred Pace, grandfather of the Pace brothers now in 
business at Ashland with him there were many other pioneer preachers of 
different denominations. In the Lineville territory Rev. James Jordan, a 
Missionary Baptist preacher, was among the early ones. Rev. E. S. Swope, a 
Methodist preacher, was another pioneer preacher in this county. Uncle Jimmie 
Robinson was a preacher as well as businessman, as was Rev. H. A. Manning. These 
were Methodist preachers. Rev. John W. Knowles and Rev. William T. Davis were 
among the early Baptist preachers, as was Dr. Scarbrough. Old Smyrna was a 
Methodist church which stood in the early days where Olive Branch Baptist church 
now stands. Macedonia Primitive Baptist church was first established about two 
miles northwest of Lineville, on the old Talladega-Wedowee road.

May 21, 1936

While Clay County has never been able to claim first rank in many respects, 
being backward for years in many modern developments, yet on the subject of 
education our people have manifested a vital interest from the very beginning of 
her history. While all of her first schools were small and of a primary grade, 
Clay County people have been by schools as they have churches. When any given 
community settled up to any extent a schoolhouse was soon in the midst. Although 
the schools were small and the terms short, usually split into a few winter 
months and then a summer term, our people took interest in the cause. Even 
before the county was form ed an Academy of Learning had been established at 
Lineville, and very soon was doing a fine class of work. As we have previously 
stated, Prof. J. L. McClellan and wife were said to be the first college 
graduates to teach in Clay County. They taught at the Academy for some years. 
Also, such men as Dr. John P. Shaffer, Dr. W. H. Moon, Rev. W. T. Davis and Mr. 
W. B. Smith taught in that school. Later such college men as Frank T. and James 
Stephenson taught there and did some fine work in that school Judge E. J. 
Garrison taught in that school when he was. but little more than a boy.  By the 
time Clay County was established the Drs. Slaughter conduct ed some good schools 
at Pinekneyville. In the latter seventies Bethel In statute was established in 
north Clay. Prof. Hiram M. Evans taught there before he came to Ashland to teach 
and where he was teaching when appointed judge of probate in 1880. Ashland soon 
established high school work and in 1882 the Lineville Institute was opened. 
Both the schools at Ashland and Lineville were later charter made colleges, and 
while they never ranked as Class A sieges excellent educational work was done at 
both places, both turning out many who became distinguished in the educational 
field as well as in other professions. For many years our schools were not 
systematized, but wherever a community built to any consequence the educational 
interest moved apace. The Legislature of 1907 established the Clay County High 
School system in Alabama and soon the one for Clay was located at Ashland.  
After that an agricultural school was located at Lineville, and now we have 
Junior and Senior high schools in several rural places in the county. 
Millerville has about the biggest Senior high school in this section of country. 
Delta, Barfield, Mellow Valley, Cragford, Heflin high, Highland and other places 
have good their interest in the great cause of education. Clay county has 
furnished some of the country's leading educators. The community of Brownville 
has certainly made a great contribution to higher education. Leading educators 
have gone from other sections of the county.

May 28, 1936

A great deal has been said and some things done about Clay County minerals. 
Perhaps there is no other territory of like size to be found in which there may 
be found a greater variety of minerals than in Clay County. The minerals in what 
is now Clay County has. at least one bit of special interest. It was from what 
is now Clay County earth that the last days of the Confederacy got its powder. 
From the old Copper Mines just above Pyriton. Sulphur was mined from which a 
quantity of powder was made. This was one source of supply the Yankees never did 
find and never knew of it until many years after the War between the States 
closed. The Yankees thought they had the Confederacy completely blockaded from 
getting any powder, and they did except the small supply that was gotten as 
above shown. In the year 1900 this writer took the late Senator John T. Morgan 
by that mine and on to his boyhood home at Clairmont Springs, or what is 
Clairmont Springs now, and Senator Morgan told us that day that his older son, 
John, worked at that old Copper Mine during the last days of the Confederacy as 
an engineer. The Senator's home at that time was in Selma, and it was to Selma 
that the Sulphur from those old mines was shipped. In later years quite a 
quantity of pyrites was mined from the same mine. Gold has been found and mined 
to a limited extent in several places in Clay County. Several gold mines are in 
operation now and we sincerely hope they may prove more successful than former 
ones were. Some years prior to and during the World War graphite was rather 
extensively mined in Clay County. Indeed, for several years millions of dollars 
were put into graphite mines in Clay County, as well as some adjoining counties 
mostly in Clay. It is said that without a higher tariff on graphite it cannot be 
mined to a profit in this county. Of course, we all wish that it could be mined 
and let our people get the benefit of some of the great wealth which has been 
sleeping within our soils these many years. At one time a tin mine was operated 
to a limited amount in Clay County. The county contains an abundance of iron 
ore, a mere scratch of which has been shipped and worked. Mica and many other 
valuable minerals abound in the county. In short, there is little doubt that our 
many red hills and mountain spurts contain stores of wealth if we only can find 
a paying method of getting it out and to obey the behests of man here's hoping.

June 4, 1936

In the early years of Clay County's history people were not so thickly settled 
as they are now, and their modes of transportation and what was called roads 
made neighbors far apart as we have previously said, churches came with the 
settlement of communities. Most churches had from one to two services per month. 
If they had two services, one of them was usually held on Saturday before the 
regular Sunday service. There were no highways then, indeed, no roads that would 
be called roads today. All pioneer doctors and preachers traveled on horseback, 
going trails and byways to get there. Many people walked for miles to Sunday 
preaching. Some would go in wagons often drawn by oxen. A few of the most 
favored had buggies and carriages. It was a custom back then for ladies to ride 
horseback much more so than now, but they did does not ride astride as they do 
now, they had what was called side-saddles, made especially for ladies. At each 
country church it was necessary to provide one or more "horse-blocks of sawed 
timbers on which the lady would mount and dismount. Those "horse-blocks" often 
had stairs, or steps to them, to be used in case of a tall or low animal. No 
doubt there are a great many young people in the county today who never saw a 
"horse-block." Indeed, this writer has not seen one in many years. The fashions 
of today for the ladies would not suit side-saddles. Back then ladies wore 
riding skirts, and the men wore long dusters to protect the clothes from the 
dirt and sweat of the saddle animals. In the pioneer days many country churches 
did not announce services by a time piece, or the hours. For evening service 
during protracted services announcements were often made as follows: "Prayer 
meeting one hour by sun; preaching at early candlelight. No electric lights and 
but few lamps back then. Candles were used for lighting, but as a rule church 
with a true spirit of worship as their chief aim. Many gracious revivals of 
religion were held by "candlelight" and many souls found the way to a brighter 
land in the pioneer church of early Clay County. Protracted services, were held 
at all churches at least once per year, usually in the summer after crops had 
been "laid by." The church spirit and the school spirit has always moved apace 
with the progress and settlement of the citizenship of Clay County. We often 
hear people, especially older people, expressing a desire for more of the "old 
time religion". The old-time religion was characterized by an humble walk and a 
true spirited not so much of the mere entertainment clement dominating it.

June 11, 1936

As we previously announced, Hollingsworth Watts gave 40 acres of land to have 
the county seat, Ashland, located where it is. His offer was accepted. Thomas F. 
Lundy, who owned most of the lands about where Lineville is now, a good many 
years before Ashland was located, gave 5 acres of land covering the main 
business section of Lineville, on the condition that it be surveyed into city 
lots, sold and the proceeds go into the building of an "Academy of Learning." 
The following were named as a school commission to put that order into effect: 
James L. Barnhill, chairman; John T. Bell, Isam Steed, William Cole and Thomas 
F. Lundy. William Cole was the contractor who built the Academy of Learning, a 
two-story frame building at first, located where the Lineville Grammar school 
building now stands. It will thus be seen that the town of Lineville was started 
on the idea of education and her people all through the years have taken a vital 
interest in the cause of education. We have not before us the exact date that 
building was put up, but in the fifties, at least before the War between the 
States.  In that old Academy of Learning many good schools were taught. It was 
there that Prof. J. L. McClellan and wife, said to be the first college 
graduates to teach in the county, taught for some time. It is said they 
graduated at old Oxford College. Some splendid high school work and college 
preparation were done in that old school building. Other college graduates 
followed the McClellans there. But as the village and the community grew in 
population that old building was inadequate, and about the year 1881-82 the 
Lineville Institute, on the north-east side of town, was built and schoolwork 
began there. All grades up through high school were taught there. In 1891, the 
General Assembly of Alabama by charter converted the Lineville Institute into 
the Lineville College. Judge E. J. Garrison was the first president of Lineville 
College. It was not properly equipped and never claimed to be a Class A college, 
but splendid work was done there for many years. Some of the State's leading 
educators have taught there and accomplished a great work. All grades of 
schoolwork were carried on there in the same building. By an Act of the 
Legislature of 1910-11, a state secondary agricultural school was located at 
Lineville. A few years after the location of the state school there a separate 
grammar school building was erected and the two-take care of the school interest 
of that entire section. Some ten years ago a school dormitory was built in 
connection with these schools for the convenience of the school interests.

June 18, 1936

We have already had a right smart to say about the early schools and their 
teachers. Unfortunately, the county superintendent of education's office does 
not contain any record of the work during any of the earlier years. Only in 
recent years has any record been kept. We are not sure just who served as the 
first superintendent of education, The first name we have is Tony Williamson. It 
seems that he did not serve out his term for some reason, The first 
superintendent this writer can remember was Col. A. S. Stockdale. He served for 
a number of years. He was a lawyer by profession. This writer took his first ex 
amination for license to teach school under Col. Stockdale. In the absence of a 
definite record, we think that Col. Stockdale served until the election of 1892, 
when the Populist party came into power in the county, bringing with R. H. 
Fisher as superintendent of education. Then F. J. Ingram, later Judge Ingram, 
served a term and following him James W. Jackson, Not having any record before 
us we may get some of these men out of order, but we will not name any who did 
not serve. As our memory serves us, Walter A. Speer was nominated to succeed Mr. 
Jackson, but died and his opponent, Mr. A. S. Horn, was named and served. W. T. 
Harwell served more than one term, for a while the law of selection was changed, 
and Mr. Harwell served on an election by the County Board and also by election 
by the people, as we recall. Mr. Leftwich served a term, and he was licked by 
Mr. Harwell. Mr. Dewey Owen succeeded Mr. Harwell and he was succeeded by Mr. E. 
W. Robinson. Mr. Robinson was succeeded by the present superintendent, Mr. J. H. 
Martin. If we have left out anyone or placed any one or ones in the wrong place, 
be assured it was not intentional. As stated in the beginning, we are writing 
these historical sketches as much to get the records straight and get as much 
history into the records as anything else. Indeed, these are the chief object of 
the undertaking. What we do record we want it to be authentic so that some 
historian can in the future take up the fragments and build a real history upon 
them. While a backward county in many respects, Clay County has ever been alive 
to the cause of education and has made a number of rich contributions to the 
great cause. Clay has reasons to be especially proud of many of her sons and 
daughters in the fields of higher education, as well as in all grades of 
schoolwork. No people can advance without good schools, and education, next to 
religion, appeals to our people. In this connection, as well as in all others, 
we will appreciate any corrections and additional information. That is what we 
earnestly seek.

June 25, 1936

The county seat is the central point in the county, the whole people of the 
county will always be interested in its history and the history of those who 
founded it in other articles we have already mentioned a number of the first 
citizens. Among others the Bunn family, several of them, were among the early 
settlers and lived about Ashland many years. There were father and mother Bunn, 
William, Jefferson, Philander and perhaps others of the sons and several 
daughters. Jefferson Bunn is yet living up near his son at Campbell's 
Crossroads. Phil Bunn was a Deputy U. S. Marshal under President Cleveland's 
first administration, or about that time. J. D. Barron, a prominent citizen of 
Alabama, lived at Ashland a while. Before coming to Ashland, he ran a newspaper 
at old Louina soon after the War Between the States. He later was Secretary of 
State, the only man from Clay County to ever fill that station. For many years 
before his death, he was connected with The Montgomery Advertiser. This writer 
was an honorary pall bearer at his funeral in Montgomery many years ago. If we 
have the record straight Phil Bunn married a daughter of J. D. Barron. One of 
the Bunn girls married Uncle Jack Pittard. Judge J. L. Williams, the Whites, 
Nelsons, Robinsons, Stockdales, Mannings, Mackeys, Youngs, Lackeys and many 
others figured actively in the establishment of the town and community of 
Ashland. J. A. White and Jimmie White, the latter a lawyer, were always active 
in the public life of the county, as was Col. A. S. Stockdale. Judge W. J. 
Pearce and William Hood were among the town's early lawyers at the bar. W. M. 
Lackey began the practice at an early date. Hiram M. Evans first came to Ashland 
as principal of the Ashland school and when Judge Williams died in 1880. Evans 
was appointed judge of probate. From then on he took quite an active part in the 
civic, educational and religious life of the town and the county. He was an 
able, active and aggressive citizen. The Schoggins family of whom William 
Scoggins yet lives, have long been closely identified with Ashland and 
community. Perhaps William Schoggins knows as much or more of the history of 
Ashland than any man now living. We have asked him to give us the benefit of any 
and all historical facts of interest he can recall that we may record them for 
the benefit of others. All these historical facts will grow of more and more 
interest as the years pass by. It is greatly regretted that the facts were not 
gathered and recorded many years ago while so many who made the history were yet 
living to tell them. We will greatly appreciate all authentic facts of 
historical interest that we may record them for the benefit of future
generations. All of us should feel proud of our heritage and seek to preserve it 
in the best form and cherish it by making all the improvements we possibly can.

July 2, 1936

The early circuit court terms in Clay County were gala occasions, the chief 
events of the year. When circuit court convened people would come from all 
quarters in wagons, usually drawn by oxen, some buggies, and many would bring 
droves of mules and horses plugs for trading purposes. Court weeks were great 
occasions for horse-swapping. All the west side of the square in Ashland now, 
the territory at the rear of the First National Bank building, was long known as 
the "Clay County Bone Yard." It was there that traders came from far and near. 
Never a trading animal was found on said "bone yard" over nine years of age. 
There were traders there as clever as one of whom we read many years ago. As the 
story went, a man had a fine horse, a perfect beauty, but it had a weakness in 
its hind parts. At times it would give down just drop right down in the hind 
legs, A neighbor, not knowing about that weakness, was very anxious to buy the 
fine horse, and asked its owner to try it out with him. They were moving along 
nicely when to the consternation of the owner, the horse had weak spell and 
dropped right down. The would-be purchaser was amazed, but the horse trader was 
equal to the occasion. He said: "Be still, there is game near." Fortunately for 
him a buck deer ran across the road just in front That amazed the purchase all 
the more. Not only was the horse fine in appearance, but a squatter for game, 
and he then and there paid fabulous sum for it. Not long after the new owner was 
astride the horse and had to ford river. In the midst of the stream the horse 
gave down in its hind parts. Of course, the new owner was furious and went back 
on the first owner. saying, "You said it squatted for game. No game in that 
river." The horse-trader was still resourceful After a hearty forced laugh, he 
said, "Why, you foolish fellow, I told you that it would squat for fish as same 
as game." Many men traded horses on the old Ashland "Bone Yard" about as 
resourceful as that fellow was. An amusing story has long been told on the older 
Judge John T. Heflin who practiced law a good deal in the early years of Clay 
County courts. A negro had a case in court and was brought out of jail for 
trial. He had employed Judge Heflin to defend him. The old Judge had not gone 
into the case with the negro and when it was called, he asked the Court that he 
be allowed to take his client aside for consultation. He took the negro to the 
rear of the old courthouse and when the negro told what his case was the old 
Judge said, "Negro, you had better take leg bail right now while you have a 
chance." The negro slid at once down the stair steps. Court was called and the 
old Judge walked leisurely back down into the bar. The Court asked the sheriff 
where the defendant was, not seeing the negro. The sheriff told him that he did 
as direct, turned the defendant over to his attorney for consultation. The Court 
said, "Mr. Heflin, where is the defendant?" The old Judge raised his eyes slowly 
and said, "Your Honor, I think by this time the defendant is in-come-at-in-bus 
in swampo." That closed that case on the docket. For a long time in the early 
years of the circuit courts of Clay County two men, Meritt Street and Benjamin 
Clements, large land and property owners, furnished most of the litigation on 
the civil dockets of the county. We will not take up the criminal dockets now.

July 9, 1936

As our work develops it is our desire to have something to say about all the men 
and women, or as many as we well can, who have contributed to the great cause of 
education in Clay County. As hitherto stated, as far behind in some respects as 
Clay County may have stood, our people have all the while tried to move abreast 
with the advanced movements of education. Just here let me say that I deeply 
regret that I have not the names of every man and woman who was a pioneer 
teacher back in the days of the "little red schoolhouse." In Clay County they 
were not red, but mostly the color of the logs which embraced the one-room house 
where our first teachers laid the foundations. We know that their work was 
limited, and unavoidably crude, but the graves many of them unmarked graves of 
those who taught those first schools we would lay our largest cluster of 
flowers, for we of later and better times owe those pioneers a debt of lasting 
gratitude we can never fully pay. One of the very first who taught in the 
Lineville community, long known as an educational center, was Miss Rebecca King. 
We have this information directly from her before she died a good many years 
ago. After marriage she was long known as Mrs. Rebecca Steed, wife of W. D. 
Steed, but as Rebecca King she taught two schools in a little one room, log 
house which stood between the demonstration farm in Lineville and the home of 
Mr. W. H. Jackson. Except the two terms she taught by Col. Joseph E. McCain. who 
had been a soldier in the war with Mexico. One of the McCains, a brother to my 
grandfather, taught some schools in a small house which stood at or near old 
Smyrna Church, now Olive Branch. There was a small log schoolhouse inside the 
present city limits of Ashland, but just who taught there we have not yet 
learned. Maybe someone who reads this can tell us about that. The above were 
schools before the War Between the States. In the early days of Clay and even 
before Clay was formed, Pinckneyville had some good schools. The Slaughters and 
others were leaders in that good school for years. To the memory of one of 
Clay's early teachers I would pay the highest tribute of which I am capable. She 
was not a college graduate, although her clear insight into the true philosophy 
of life and character and far superior to many who have had the advantage of 
college training; but in the "old field school" days of north Clay County, many 
are the grateful hearts who owe a debt of gratitude to the faithful and 
efficient labors of Miss Mollie Owens. She did a work but few equal and none 
surpass in the sphere in which she labored. May her memory live long and be 
cherished, as we would many others who laid the foundation for the super 
structure on which we are supposed to be. 

July 16, 1936

As information comes in, we find it necessary to retrace many times. Through the 
courtesy of Mrs. Alberta Steed Price, Birmingham, Ala., we are advised that one 
Miss Mary Underwood from Opelika, Ala., taught the first school in Ashland in a 
small log house ana boarded with Mr. and Mrs. Jim Nelson while she was teaching. 
Miss Underwood later married Mr. Sam R. Wheeler, Talladega, and lived there 
until her death. We are grateful to Mrs. Price for this valuable information. it 
seems rather strange how we will sometimes let the most familiar things slip by 
us. In giving the names of most of the doctors who have practiced in Clay County 
we were more than sure, we thought, that we mentioned Dr. J. T. Manning, for 
indeed, this writer knew Dr. Manning longer than any of the other doctors, He 
was a native son, a brilliant man and a successful physician in this country 
all, or most all, of his life. We knew none better and how the name, slipped by 
us I do not quite understand; but human nature is far from perfect. As we have 
said all the while, we will be glad to be correct ed. We leave out nothing or 
any one intentionally; we earnestly seek historical facts. For one of her 
position, ability and opportunities, Clay County, we feel, has contributed 
liberally to the march of progress in this section and as far as we can we want 
to make record of the men and women who have made our history. As we have stated 
from the very beginning, we cannot hope to be complete in any phase of the work, 
but what we do write we want it to be authentic so that future historians can 
build up on it and make for posterity a fuller and more complete record. In the 
absence of all records, all being burned when the courthouse was burned in March 
1875, it has been impossible to get data in chronological order. We have made an 
earnest effort to trace the education al department. According to "Uncle Bill" 
Scroggins, one of our oldest citizens, the first superintendent of education of 
Clay County was named Haynes. That about completes a list of that office. Old 
Smyrna Methodist church (stood where Olive Branch now stands) was the oldest 
Methodist church in the county about 100 years ago it was established. Dr. A. R. 
Stephens of Delta says that Bethel church is the oldest Missionary Baptist 
church in the county. Dr. Stephens says it was established as far back as 1845. 
Smyrna Methodist church was established in 1837.

July 23, 1936

Clay county is and should be proud of the fact that upon her soil was once the 
boyhood home of one of the South's greatest statesmen, Senator John Tyler 
Morgan, was known and recognized as such not only by the South, but the entire 
nation. He was truly internationally known and appreciated as one of the 
greatest minds our country has ever produced. A good many errors have found 
their way into the record of Senator Morgan's life in Clay County. Some have 
claimed that he was born here, but that is a mistake. In the year 1900 Senator 
Morgan spent ten days with the writer at Lineville, and before he left the 
county on that, the second trip this writ er had brought him into the county, I 
carried him to what is now Clairmont Springs. That was before Clairmont was 
established or the A. B. & A. R. R. was built. While on the ground, looking at 
the scenes of his boyhood, the Senator told is a good deal about his experiences 
there. As the U. S. Senate Director showed, Senator Morgan was born near Athens, 
Tennessee, and his parents moved to then Benton (now Calhoun) Alabama, when he 
was a small boy. On his visit two years before that I carried him by to see old 
Dr. Striplin who was a school mate in old Benton County. His parents moved from 
Benton County to then Talladega County now Clay and at Clairmont Springs. As all 
know who knew him well, he had a most remarkable memory. While standing at 
Clairmont he pointed out each mountain peak, giving each one the names he had 
given them when a small boy. He told us that day it had been fifty-two years 
since he had been there before. This writer has preserved a large stack of 
Senator Morgan's personal letters, He was a great letter writer, that is, he 
wrote long and interesting letters, I have one letter of 32 pages of letter 
size, written with a pen. All these personal letters are written with his own 
hand and all were stamped. He was at least one Senator who did not frank 
personal letters. He got most of his academic training there from his mother. He 
went to Talladega and read law and was admitted before he was of age. If space 
would permit. I could recite what he told me of his first case as a lawyer also 
a great many other interesting things he told me about his life at Clairmont 
Springs. Not only Clay County, but the whole country is indeed proud to claim 
such a great man as a citizen at any time of life. Maybe later we can tell a 
good deal more about this once great citizen of Clay County whose funeral I 
attended in Selma in July 1907. Senator Morgan's older son, John, Jr., was an 
engineer at the old Coppermines mine near Pyriton a while during the War between 
the States. One of the interesting stories Senator Morgan told me that day about 
his boyhood days there he said his mother had a spring house near where the main 
spring is now where she kept the milk in summertime. Late one afternoon she sent 
him after the milk for supper. When he got to the spring, boy-like, he stooped 
over to drink water from the spring. He said he heard a rustling in the leaves 
near him and raising his head, he saw three big, black wolves right at him. He 
closed that story by saying, "We didn't have any milk for supper that night".

July 30, 1936

As we have been criticized for leaving off so many doctors in our articles on 
the subject, maybe we had better write a fill in article. We knew at the time, 
as we have said, that the list was by no means complete. These articles are 
written chiefly with the hope of gaining all the information possible. Among the 
most active of the doc tors whose names have not appeared were Dr. 0. K. Waits, 
who practiced from Ashland, Delta and Lineville for many years. His relative, 
Dr. Darby, lived and practiced for many years down on Hatchett Creek. He has a 
son in the practice of medicine at Athens, Ala. Down near Bluff Springs there 
were two doctors by the name of King, one of whom was named Dr. Jacob King. We 
have written of the Dr. Jacob King who lived at Lineville for many years, going 
west before he died. Dr. LaFayette Harlan practiced in the county for many 
years. Dr. John Garrett practiced at Delta some time Dr. M. D. Liles practiced 
from Lineville many years, coming here from Randolph County. Dr. John Liles 
practiced at Lineville several years before going back to Roanoke where he died. 
Young Dr. Dean practiced at Lineville several years. I think I named Dr. 
Scarbrough and Dr. W. O. Jenkins in my former article. They were men who 
practiced in the county for a number of years. Both were also preachers. The 
older Dr. Jordan practiced at Cragford for a number of years, and there was a 
younger Dr. Jordan. Dr. Shaddix, a native of Clay County, practiced in this 
county for a number of years before locating elsewhere. A number of young men 
from this county took medical courses and went to other places to locate. There 
were still others. No one is intention ally left out. We want all the historic 
facts we can get. We have had something to say about the pioneer schoolteachers, 
those who founded our "little red schoolhouses," at least one room houses of 
logs. We have named a few of them. We wish we knew the names of everyone. When 
our schools went into the work of higher grades such names as the Slaughters at 
Pinckneyville, Hiram M. Evans at Bethel Institute and at Ashland, the 
McClellands, the Stephensons, Frank and James; John T. Wiley, James H. Riddle, 
E. J. and C. L. Garrison and Geo. W. Stevens at Lineville. For many years the 
late C. B. Allen, prominent citizen of Ashland, was engaged in teaching at 
Millerville and Ashland. Men like these put Clay County on the educational map, 
a place she prizes, perhaps, higher than any of her other achievements. In later 
years the ranks of these high school teachers have been greatly increased.

August 6, 1936 

We hear a great deal these days about schools, schools having to cut short their 
terms on account of shortage of funds. I do not know exactly just what the per 
capita school children draw from state school funds, but on an average, it must 
be near five dollars. This writer recalls the first school he taught after he 
came out of college forty-six years ago. To teach that school I walked nearly 
four miles the round trip, rang the first bell and made the first fire. In those 
days we had no janitor to make fires and keep the house. In that school I 
averaged about 130 pupils. Of course, I soon had to get help. We had no uniform 
textbook law then; the schools were not graded then as they are now. Before I 
got any help, I had every grade from the first up to Latin and trigonometry. I 
drew from the state 53 cents per capita, charging, on an average, about $1.25 
per month, per student. It took at least sixteen out of the twenty-four hours of 
the day and night to teach it, even as we taught it. You say it must have been a 
poor affair. I have in more recent years had charge of a state school, with 
about all the modern conveniences we now have, and in some respects, my first 
school was about the best I ever taught I began one student in Latin in that 
school who is today, no doubt one of the best Latin and Greek teachers in 
America. Of course, he learned most of it after he left that school, Dr. Allen 
J. Moon. This writer has worked for and voted for, both as a good citizen and as 
a lawmaker, many of the modern school laws, such as uniform textbooks, teachers 
examination, compulsory attendance, all increased appropriations at which I had 
a chance. In fact, I have stood for progress and advancement in the cause of 
education along all lines but let us "not despise the days of small things." The 
first school would be considered now a mighty hard, cheap school. All we got 
from the state was the 63 cents per head. The patrons paid the remainder, and in 
that school, they PAID it. No back pay due the teacher in that school. I am not 
reactionary, or advocating going back to the old days and old ways, seven if I 
am getting old, but in those days, when each patron had a part and took a part 
almost directly in saying who the teachers were to be, the patrons took a very 
direct interest in the school; they watched the teacher and what he did, and the 
teacher realized that he had more to please than any mere board or any special 
department In short, he watched his step. If teachers in those days wanted to 
teach longer than one term in any good country school then, he knew that he had 
to satisfy the patrons of that school, as well as a board of trustees. We have 
made great progress since those days but let us not forget that there were some 
virtues even in the old, crude system.

August 13, 1936

While the office of sheriff is one for which a few men do not aspire, the writer 
being one of that class, yet it is an important place and usually men do not 
have to be drafted to seek it. Many good men often run for sheriff at the same 
time. In the absence of specific records, as we have often explained, we may not 
get things in exact order; but the following have served Clay County as sheriff, 
several of them more than one term W. L. Dick was the first sheriff, being 
followed by Bill Powell. Powell was followed by Isaac Beard, and then Jefferson 
Strickland. Uncle Bill Schoggins, one of our oldest citizens, gave us much of 
this information, and he says Strickland resigned before his time was out and J. 
A. White was appointed to fill out the term. Then J. A. White served at least 
two terms by election, these at different times, as sheriffs do not succeed 
themselves. Wesley Gable followed White's first term. Then John W. Blackstock 
served a term, and J. A. White came in again, being followed by F. M. Monroe, 
and Monroe was succeeded by W. D. Harvel. Then W. D. Mayo served his first term. 
He was succeeded by Jas. J. Miller and Miller was followed by J. H. Allen in his 
first term. Then W. D. Mayo came in again, and was followed by J. M. Hamlin, and 
Hamlin was succeeded by John W. Stewart and then J. H. Allen came in again and 
Allen was followed by C. S. Phillips and Phillips was succeeded by W. D. Mayo in 
his present term. If there are any errors in this order, the reader will please 
bear in mind that errors are not intended. We leave no one or anything out on 
purpose. We are earnestly seeking only facts and the history as it was made and 
by whom made. As we have said, we do not claim any perfection, and if we leave 
out important names of facts, we ask to be correctly advised so that all facts 
possible may be recorded. We have but few authentic records from which to gather 
facts, and if we leave out names any reader feels that we should record, just 
give u? the names and the facts and we will be glad to record them. In a 
subsequent article we hope to give something of the record of the Circuit 
Clerk's office. It is well for the coming generations to know who made the 
history of Clay County as they found it. We sorely regret that something did not 
begin this work many years ago. Many of those who made our history are now 
silent in their graves and cannot tell us what they knew but let us try our 
best. Let us repeat, that what we record we want to be authentic so that Others 
may build upon it later.

August 20, 1936

As we have repeatedly said before the first records of the county were burned. 
In the absence of the records, we are not sure about the order in which they 
came, and we may not some of them all. No one is left out on purpose you may be 
sure. According to "Uncle Bill Scroggins," on whom I have depended for much 
information, he says Dr. Steadham was about the first circuit clerk. I never 
knew that before, but Uncle Bill remembers well. Jeff Stockdale, Robert Porter 
and Frank Cole served as clerk. I have been told that Frank Cole also taught in 
the early schools of Ashland. E. A. Phillips served as clerk before he was judge 
of probate. J. S. Smith succeeded Phillips. R. W. Mellon, Joseph B. Dean, W. C. 
Dempsey, K. J. White and the present clerk, Frank B. Carpenter. As stated, we 
may not have them all or have them just in the order they served. As we have 
stated all the while, we are seeking information more than we are expecting to 
impart information. At different times Clay County has been in different 
judicial circuits. Writing in the absence of any record, we will not attempt now 
to name the judges who served Clay first; but beginning with Judge Leroy Box and 
coming on down we find them in about this order: I am not quite sure that Judge 
George Brewer succeeded Box or not, but Judge Brewer served until his death 
about the close of the last century. As I recall Judge Pelham was appointed to 
succeed Judge Brewer, and after Judge Pelham, Judge Hugh D. Merrill served. The 
Judges of the present circuit, as I recall them, have been Judges E. J. 
Garrison, Longshore, W. M. Lackey, Lyman, E. P. Gay, and the present judge, W. 
W. Wallace. For a number of years Clay County had what was called a "County 
Court," with concurrent jurisdiction with the circuit court. Judges W. J. Pearce 
and M. N. Manning served that court. I reckon I had better offer a cold coca 
cola to the lawyer who will name all the men who have served as solicitors of 
the different courts in this county. I know that quite a number served in that 
capacity. We seek correct facts and correct names; we leave out nothing on 
purpose, but the reader will bear in mind that none of us are perfect. Some of 
us are very imperfect.

August 27, 1936

Clay county has produced a number of useful men and women, quite a number of 
whom have become leaders in different of fields of activity. We have today a 
native son in the United States Senate ranking among leaders of that August 
body. Senator Hugo L. Black is regarded as one of our ablest Senators and Clay 
County is proud to claim him a native son. in a previous article we had some- 
thing to say about the great international statesman, the late Senator John T. 
Morgan, who lived in Clay County when he was a boy. We have another who was 
partly reared in Clay who became internationally famous, Hoyt Smith, in later 
life known as Hoyt DeFreese. As we understand a man by the name of Smith from up 
about Boston, Mass., came to Talladega where he met, wooed and won a Miss 
DeFreese. Hoyt Smith was a son of that union. It later developed that Smith was 
a married man and was taken back east, leaving his wife and small son. Mrs. 
Smith, evidently a very brilliant woman, having close relatives in Clay County 
who lived up in the Black's Chapel community, came there and lived some years 
during Hoyt's boyhood. The boy soon gave evidence of a very bright mind. That 
was soon after the War Between the States and the Southern people were 
undergoing the greatest privations, Hoyt was eager for an education. We have 
often heard the story that while cutting sprouts one day, he threw down the 
instrument with which he was cutting sprouts and said, "I am leaving now and 
don't intend to do anything else but work directly for an education." He went to 
Oxford, Ala., and hired himself to Major Gunnels to do service about the home to 
pay for his board and go to school. After doing that some years, his mother 
having married Prof Moore and gone to Cailfornia. where her husband engaged in 
teaching Hoyt went out there and as we understand finished his literary 
education. Later he went to Yale University and entered law school there. With 
his bright mind and determined efforts he made a brilliant record in all the 
schools he attended. The late Robt H. Moon told the Writer that while Hoyt Smith 
was boy living in Clay County that they were school mates in a small school in 
Clay County for a while. About the year 1875, the international lawyer, Choate 
of New York, was present at Hoyt Smith's law graduation and heard Smith deliver 
his graduation speech. He was very much impressed with the young bright mind. 
and attainments and sought an introduction to Hoyt. So much was the great lawyer 
Choate impressed with the bright young Hoyt Smith that he offered the young man 
a place in his offices. He had offices in both New York and London, England. 
This gave the young attorney just the great opportunity he had so much desired 
from his boyhood. The late Osceola Evans a close relative of Hoyt DeFreese has 
told a me great deal of Hoyt s early lire, and Evans said once while the boy was 
lying flat on the floor reading about the English parliament, he got up and 
said, "Someday I am going to see how the English parliament does business," and 
while he was never a member of said parliament, he became quite familiar with 
its operations. With the great advantage of his connection with that great 
international law firm Hoyt very soon had an opportunity to visit England and 
become acquainted with not only parliament, but with kings and queens and other 
royalty. As I understand Queen Victoria, for this was during her reign, soon 
recognized Hoyt's abilities and made him her social advisor, or its legal 
department, ne was long a recognized authority on international law, and not 
long after the close of the World War, he came to the United States on a mission 
of that character and while here was Stricken with the trouble that killed him. 
A niece of mine by marriage is a relative of Hoyt DeFreese and she has told me 
something of a correspondence, she had with a half-sister to Hoyt after his 
death. He was, indeed, a man whose life and attainments and achievements were 
quite enough to reflect honor upon the land of his nativity and the county in 
which he lived while a struggling youth. We hope later to be able to give more 
and fuller information on the life of this great man.

September 3, 1936

Through the courtesy of some records kindly furnished me by Dr. J. W. Jordan of 
Ashland, I will give below the names of the men who have represented Clay County 
in the law-making bodies of Alabama. Several of these men served a number of 
times. That was true of T. W. Newsome, J. H. White, J.D. Carmichael, and this 
writer served three regular terms and an extra in the state senate, but I 
mention the names but once. The State has held three constitutional conventions 
since Clay County was made a county. The delegates from Clay were Thomas Adams, 
J. H. White and E. A. Phillips. For a long time, Clay and Talladega composed the 
Eighth senatorial district The constitutional convention of 1901 put Clay into 
the 34th district with Cleburne and Coosa counties. Clay's state senators have 
been: Green T. McAfee, A Cunningham, M. G. Slaughter, P. U. Duncan, Merritt 
Street, Cecil Browne, W. M. Lackey, H. L. McEldery, John R. McCain, Walter S. 
Smith, D.M. White, W.B. Merrill, O. Smith, W. H. Howle, W. B. Nolen, John A. 
Darden, Grady Cook. The last named a member now. Those who have represented. 
Clay in the house of representatives are the following: T. W. Newsome, J. H. 
White, James D. Barron, L. A. Gibson, J. M. Kennedy, J. D. Carmichael, William 
Ingram, H. C. Simmons, I. A. J. Nelson, T. H. Howle, Robt. D. Evans, J. C. 
Manning, D. M. Carmichael, H. Clay Knight, W. H. Preston, W. R. Pruet, F. J. 
Ingram, Jas. A. Smith, J. J. Cockrell, J. W. Jordan, M. P. Kelly. Mr. Kelly is a 
member of the present house. As stated above, many of these men served more than 
one term, often at different times. Under the constitution of 1875 a state 
senator served two terms under one election. Under that constitution members of 
the house were elected every two on years, senators for four years. Under the 
present constitution they both serve four years under one election. If you have 
never tried to gather data for historical articles, you will hardly realize what 
it often takes tit do so until you try a few. I greatly appreciate any and. all 
historical facts about our county. In writing without record it is quite easy to 
omit names and facts and I am glad to have my attention called to any omission.

September 10, 1936

We have had something to say about many different classes and professions of 
Clay County citizens of the past. We have told of our judges, our lawyers, our 
clerks, our sheriffs, our teachers, merchants, etc., but have had but little to 
say about our preachers. The writer being reared by one of Clay county's pioneer 
ministers, we hope no one will regard us unfair for deferring this until now; 
and we are not now prepared to write the article on that subject. We hope to be 
able to do so later. We have no list, or records from which we can name any 
preachers, and will not undertake to name here and now but a few. Those whom we 
will name were preaching long before there was any Clay County. we cannot name 
the first ones, but certainly one of the pioneers was Rev. Sylvester Swope, a 
Godly man and faithful gospel preacher of the Methodist church for many years, 
and among the early ones were the "trio of Jimmies" James Jordan, James Shaddix 
and James E. McCain, the last named was the father of this writer. By reason of 
that relation, we assume no boast or egotism when we truly say that this trio 
were Godly saints in Israel, men who gave their lives and labors in the pioneer 
days of this country to preaching what is now called "the old-time gospel in its 
purity." They were not educated men, as ministers are educated now. My father 
had but very little schooling in textbooks, but in the Bible and a plain, simple 
gospel he became a ripe scholar. These men were not trained in textbooks, but in 
a living faith in a living God and the preaching of the kind of gospel that Paul 
preached they might be recorded as postgraduates of those who labor ed and held 
steadfastly to the end. They traveled the trails over the rugged hills and 
mountains, going as the apostles went without money or without script, but with 
a Bible and hymn book they preached Christ and Him crucified to a dying world. 
The results of their labors are not recorded on history's printed pages, but 
much of it lives in the hearts and memories of those who heard them. With them 
were many others who were giving their lives to the same work. The late Rev. W. 
T. Davis preach ed all over this country long before Clay County was formed. He 
also taught school at times, accomplishing much good in many ways. Dr. Jacob 
King, the pioneer doctor of whom we have written, was also a preacher at times. 
The same was true of Dr. Scarbrough. "Uncle Tom Slaughter" was a pioneer 
preacher over this country for many years. We have mentioned H. A. Manning and 
Jimmie Robinson as early merchants. Both were also "local preachers.". But this 
note is only a prelude to what we hope we can write later about the good work 
done by the faithful men of God who kept the campfires of Christianity burning 
over this country in other years.

September 17, 1936:
We have said in more than one of our previous articles that Clay County people 
have always been a people who believed in churches and schools, and we refer to 
that fact with pride and deep gratitude. We have had a good deal to say about 
our schools and school people, but not so much about our churches. In the 
absence of specific records will not make a positive statement that I do not 
know to be a fact I cannot say which was the oldest church in Clay County, but I 
am sure that old Smyrna Methodist church, which stood where Olive Branch Baptist 
Church now stands, was one of the first. The writer's forebearers years ago and 
soon thereafter they helped to establish Smyrna church, making it the oldest 
church, if it were yet alive, about 100 years old.  According to Dr. A. R. 
Stephens of Delta, Bethel Baptist church in Fish-Head Valley was established in 
or prior to 1845. He said his father came to this country that year and Bethel 
church was there. That would make that church more than ninety years old and it 
is still being used as a church. Of course, there have been different buildings. 
It is also my information that church near Bluff Spring is among the oldest of 
the county. Years before the War between the States, Ebeneza Baptist Church 
stood down below Shiloh Baptist church which is four miles south of Lineville on 
the Mellow Valley Road. Black's Campground now Black's Chapel, was a church 
sometime before the Confederate war meetings were held there before and after 
that war. Macedonia Primitive Baptist church was first located north-west of 
Lineville, near the old Hester place. That was located before the Confederate 
War. Old Alder Spring church now Mt Pleasant at Barfield, was built during 
slavery time. I remember the old seats in it we slaves used. The Lineville 
Baptist church was first located west of Lineville, near the present home of 
Mrs. Lonnie Harris, and was long known as Crooked Creek Baptist church. I 
understand that old Liberty church, west of Ashland, is an old organization, as 
was true of some churches at old Wesobulga, County Line near Mellow Valley, is 
an old church, as is Union up in Shinbone. I regret that we have not the exact 
age of these organizations, out A. we thank God and the fathers and mothers of 
other years for their establishment and the good they have done. Many of their 
founders are sleeping hardby in the church in the church graveyards. If They 
could speak, they could give us dates and many other important facts about the 
work these churches have accomplished. The civilization of a country is measured 
largely by its churches and schools. 

September 24, 1936 

The recent death of the wife of "Uncle Dolph" Campbell of the Campbell Valley 
community recalls afresh to mind the fact that the Campbell family is one of the 
oldest and most substantial families of the county. We have not at hand the date 
when the Campbells first came to that community, but many years ago two 
brothers, John and Sandy Campbell, settled in that beautiful little valley among 
the mountains and reared rather large and useful families. Uncle Dolph Campbell, 
now about ninety-two years of age, was the oldest son of Sandy Campbell, or the 
oldest we knew. The late Daniel L. Campbell and Dr. W. A. Campbell, were younger 
brothers of Uncle Dolph, but he has outlived them all Mr. L. T. Campbell, a 
successful citizen who is well known over the county, is a son of Uncle John 
Camp bell. Mrs. Hamp Patterson was a daughter of the same. There were others 
whom this writer did not know. Uncle Dolph Campbell and D. L. Campbell served in 
the Confederate Army. Uncle Dolph is one of about three Confederate soldiers yet 
living in the county. All these Campbells have always been loyal southerners and 
equally loyal Democrats. One of them may differ in their church, or religious 
views, but not in politics. When the Campbells settled in that little cove, or 
smalt valley, that whole region was filled with about all kinds of wildlife. 
They all very naturally developed into good hunters and expert marksmen. Many 
deer, turkeys and other wild animals fell at the crack of a Campbell gun. It 
seems that Nature made that cove a haven, at least a harbor, for the settling of 
beehives. When bees swarm and run away anywhere about they seem to settle in 
some tree along the foothills of those surrounding mountains, and when once a 
Camp bell sees bee3 taking water and then a flight, "as straight as a martin 
goes to his gourd" just as straight goes that Campbell to a bee-tree.-In that 
way they have located more bee-trees and divided mere honey with friends and 
neighbors than any people who have been in the bee-hunting business. But honey 
is not the only liberality these good people dispense; they are liberal, 
generous and attentive to 'all neighbors and friends in many, many helpful ways. 
The locality bears many names "Campbell Town, Campbell's Crossroads, Campbell 
Valley" and then a few more Campbells. But to know them is to appreciate them 
all. We sorrow with Uncle Dolph in the loss of his good wife and long-time 
companion. But "the old must die and the young may die." Many interesting things 
might be written of that community and those good people and their neighbors.

October 1, 1936

By C. L. Watts of the Brownville community sends us some very interesting 
historical data for which we are very grateful. When in a recent article we were 
writing of some old churches of the county we thought of the Presbyterian church 
at Brownville but hoping to get correct data on its history we did not mention 
that church then. Mr. Watts says that a notice put up near the church says that 
the Hatchett Creek Presbyterian church was established in 1832, making it now 
104 years old. That being true, that church was founded about four years before 
the old Smyrna Methodist church was built As Mr. Watts says the Hatchett Creek 
Presbyterian church is the only church of that denomination in the county. It is 
so far as I know, but it has been an active church now for over a century. From 
its membership have gone out into the activities of life many leading men and 
women. Some of the leading educators of the country were reared in that church. 
The Carmichaels, Partridges, D. A. McNeill and a number of others. That church 
has contributed a number of leading ministers to the Presbyterian church. 
Another case Mr. Watts names is certainly a unique one. He tells of a negro, or 
negro with Indian blood, Virgil Patterson, whose tombstone in a graveyard near 
the home of Mr. Watts shows that the said Virgil Patterson was born in 1795 and 
died in 1905, being 110 years age and thus living in three centuries. That is 
certainly a remarkable case. I have never known another like it. He also says 
that Virgil Patterson was never married, that his people had all left that 
country, but some years ago a relative of Virgil came there and put up a tomb at 
Virgil Patterson's grave. Indeed, an individual who lived in three centuries 
richly serves a monument to mark his grave. I hope I may be able to find an 
opportunity later to give myself the pleasure of accepting Mr. Watts kind 
invitation to visit that community and seek to find out much more about its rich 
history. We wrote a number of articles some years ago about that church and 
community for the State Department of Archives and History at Montgomery. If the 
reader has never tried to gather historical facts, that reader might be 
surprised how much effort and research it takes. As we have requested in many 
previous articles, if other readers would kindly do as Mr. Watts, as well as 
some others have done, furnish us with important historical data, we could make 
the articles much more interesting and instructive. We will appreciate all 
historical facts about Clay County and Clay County people.

October 8, 1936

Truly, "Times change and people change with them." An oft repeated truth. As 
civilization advances many customs and practices change with the conditions 
which brought them about It is very natural for any per son advanced in years to 
cherish the customs and habits which prevailed during their younger days, or 
many of them. A great many things have gone out of fashion since this writer was 
a boy. For instance, one of the most cherished customs practiced when I was a 
boy was the old-time corn shuckings in the fall of the year. No doubt there are 
numbers of young men now of acre, many of them reared on the farm, who never 
attended an old-time corn shucking. Just as there are plenty of young people 
now, male and female, who often at tend services at country churches but who 
never saw a horse block on the grounds of a country church. There is no occasion 
for them now. very few of our ladies ride horseback to church now, and if they 
did, they would hardly need a horseblock, for it is the custom now to ride 
astride and the ladies dismount just as the men do. When horseblocks were needed 
and used ladies all used side-saddles and had to have some place on which to 
dismount. In other years many were the gallant young country lads who delighted 
in an opportunity to assist the lady to dismount and hitch or unhitch her steed 
for her. Most all the leading farmers back in those days who made much crop of 
corn would almost be sure to have a corn shucking and invite his neighbors to 
come in, shuck the corn, throw it as it was into a crib. When one of the leading 
farmers back then announced a corn-shucking and invited his neighbors, black and 
white, they were all there. Hundreds of bushels of corn were shucked, the shucks 
nut away and then wrestling, pulling tods tail and many other sports were 
indulged in by the young men. The bountiful suppers were something enjoyed by 
all. They ate by relays, for the crowds were too large to get into one dining 
room. In the earlier days, in the winter and early spring farmers would have 
log-rolling, when they would invite their neighbors in to help them pile the 
logs on fresh ground in piles be burned out of the way. All that was when the 
lands were fresh. Back when rail fences were the order rail-splittings were 
often had by farmers, while the women usually had quilting on the same date. 
Much of this purely history to the younger generations. Customs and ways of 
doing things change as time moves on. In the northern states they "husk" I the 
corn in heaps in the field. call it shucking the corn, they call husking the 
corn. We heard the great divine Dr. Talmage refer more than once in sermons to 
"husking corn" when was a boy.

October 15, 1936

In the lists of tax assessors and tax collectors which follow we do not know 
that we have them all, or in the exact order they came. It has been my 
information that- Frank Cole served as assessor as well as clerk. Y. J. A. 
Bartlett served as both assessor and collector; they were known, as I recall, as 
"tax commissioners." I will first give the assessors as 1 have thorn, and if I 
do not get them all, I hope someone who knows will furnish the correct 
information. In addition to Frank Cole and Y. J. A. Bartlett, I have R. L. 
Stansell, C. A. Ross, F. G. McCain, two terms, T. J. Burkhead, A. S. Bell, L. C. 
Barfield, T. J. Jackson, Cecil Sims and O. D. Sparks, the present one. The Tax 
Collectors I have, besides Y. J. A. Bartlett, also as assessor, J. H. White, 
(possibly E. R. Wood), J. A. White, B. T. Goza, J. J. Sikes, J. L. Carpenter, 
two terms; J. A. Bell, two terms; A. Bell, J. T. Bonner, R. L. Carpenter, M. P. 
Shaddix, Jeff Ford, R. M. McCain, O. D. Sparks, and O. L. Pruet, the present 
collector. As stated above, as well as in many previous articles, we will 
appreciate any and all corrections. As explained all along, it is information we 
are seeking. We did not. begin the work because we felt competent to impart much 
information, but a record of the county I mean a historical record has been too 
long neglected. The men and women who made the most of our history are dead and 
gone and cannot tell us what they knew; but we realize that the longer this work 
is neglected the move difficult it will be to get facts. People die and 
important matters pass out of the memories of those living. With the above lists 
we have about completed all county officers. Several of the lists had to be 
later corrected, but we are glad to make corrections, for facts are what we are 
seeking. We want to make the record we make reliable so a more competent 
historian may in the future build upon this record and give the future 
generations a more complete history of the county. Of course, this is and has 
been a gratuitous task on my part, and if the reader does not think it requires 
efforts, and often much effort, to gather correct historical facts, the best way 
to become convinced is to try the work yourself. Clay county is the native home 
of many of us. We love her soil and her people. No better people have lived 
anywhere. We have not had so much wealth in Clay County, but lots of honor and 
integrity. Clay has produced many able and useful citizens. Most of the loaders 
have gone to more inviting fields, yet we have had a number who have given most 
of their lives and labors to the upbuilding of home and native land. To all such 
we owe a deep debt of gratitude. 

October 22, 1936

President Roosevelt in his recent speeches in the West paid high tribute to the 
pioneer men and women who treked across the continent in covered wagons, drawn 
by oxen, blazing the way for the subsequent march of the thousands who followed 
to build the great civilization we today have in that part of the county- We of 
late years owe a great debt of gratitude to the men and women who ventured into 
the wood forest, felled the trees, built houses with the cut logs and 
established pioneer settlement. We have written of the early settlement of 
several sections of Clay County. Some days ago, we were the grateful recipient 
of a letter from Mrs. G. W. Wynn, Talladega, Rt. 4. She tells us that she is a 
daughter of Larry B. Horn, one of the Horn brothers who settled what later 
became known as "Horn's Valley." It is a beautiful strip of land running down 
between the mountain ranges, some ten miles west of Clairmont Springs. Indeed, 
as we understand, the leading settlers of that present Clairmont Springs section 
were members of the large Horn family. Mrs. Wynn tells interestingly and 
feelingly of how her father, his brothers and a few other neighbors erected 
small log houses in which their first schools were taught When the Horns settled 
that country there were no schools or churches. She said that about the year 
1874, her father and others put up a log house which was used both as a church 
and a schoolhouse. She refers to its first teacher, a Mr. William Smith, son-in-
law of the noted pioneer, Dr. Jacob King. This writer was quite small then, but 
we can faintly remember Mr. Smith. Our recollection of Dr. King is quite clear. 
From that early planting of the progressive Horn family in that section, that 
family greatly increased in number and in church and educational interest. They 
have wielded a strong and lasting influence throughout that and adjoining 
sections. Like most other families some of them broke away and went to other 
states. Most all of them reared large families. Many of the Horn family have 
been teachers and one of them was superintendent of education of Clay County at 
one time. Several members of that pioneer family are still engaged in the 
educational work of the county. As we enjoy the blessings of modern 
improvements, we would never forget the road by which we did ascend. Our young 
people need to know more about those who spent their lives and labors to give 
them what they enjoy today.

October 29, 1936

As we have announced a moratorium on the historical articles, we have been 
writing for The Ashland Progress, let us say that we have been searching some 
time for some record of the exact date on which whiskey, or the sale of 
alcoholic drinks, was voted out of Clay County. The best we have been able this 
far to gather, or the nearest approach to it, it was during the month of January 
1881, but we have not found the exact date. If anyone who reads this knows and 
can and will tell us, we will very greatly appreciate it. This writer was a boy 
at that time and took no interest in elections. As we understand the Hon. Merrit 
Street was in the Legislature, or General Assembly, as it was called then, and 
got the bill passed. Judge Hiram M. Evans was judge of probate at that time and 
a strong advocate of the bill and took an active interest in the election which 
voted the manufacture and sale of whiskey out of Clay County. By some means, or 
for some reason, all the voting was done in Ashland, the county seat. We have 
often heard a mighty good man and a good friend of the writer say before he died 
some years ago that although there was snow on the ground he walked to Ashland 
and voted to make Clay County dry. If the above date is correct, and we assume 
that it is as but true, it has been fifty-five years since any whiskey was 
legally sold in this county. How much has been illegally made and sold we are 
not called upon to sum up, neither are we seeking the job. As we have often 
stated, we will greatly appreciate being advised of correct dates and important 
facts on any subject of historical interest to the people of the county. It does 
not require much effort to record the facts, but often it requires great effort, 
time and cost to obtain the facts. What we have done has been done, of course, 
gratuitous, and we will be glad to cooperate with others in gathering and 
recording all true history of Clay County and her people we can possibly get. 
Until other material is gathered, we will suspend the historical articles.



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